As my flight begins the descent into Srinagar, I peer out at the view from my window seat. The landscape seems stunning and I quickly list out the things I am most looking forward to in the city.
Craft timeThe first to-do on my list is meeting the local craftsmen. Srinagar has carpet weavers, shawl makers and craftsmen who work with wood. I sit with them and understand their way of life. In many families, these skills have been handed down over generations, and their stories of challenges and endurance are very interesting. I visit the workshop of Khazir Sons and give them a helping hand; not that I’m really helping them, but I enjoy thinking that I am actually working.
Heritage walkThe best way to explore the city is walking. I take the old Srinagar route, starting from the bustling bazaars of Lal Chowk, and walk past some of the oldest homes and structures, dating as far back as 400 years. The busy Khayam Chowk is best known for eateries, and I enjoy the sights, sounds and smell of the food here. Imran and Shahi Durbar are already crowded. Shahi Durbar specialises in chicken and fish items, while Imran next door is known for its tujj and mutton seekh kebabs. The variety of chutneys made of garlic, cucumber, onion and radish that he serves with the kebabs are out of this world. It is a lot of fun to watch street food being prepared and to enjoy their warm hospitality. You ask for one piece of pakora; you get five with compliments. Roadside dhabas liven up the atmosphere here. There is a flurry of activities as I sip on noon chai (salted tea, typical of this city) and watch life pass by.
Blooming sightsThe sight of tulips in full bloom leaves me speechless. The Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden — situated on the foothills of the beautiful Zabarwan range and overlooking the Dal Lake — has a multitude of blooms in many different colours. The garden is open only for a brief period from mid-March to April, so check the exact dates before planning a visit.
Shop while you floatAfter a full day’s sightseeing, head to the Dal Lake. Have a hot bhutta and a cup of coffee while you watch the magical sunset. Then take a shikara ride towards the floating market. Shop for funky jewellery, shawls, flowers, and also see how people live in their little homes on stilts in the lake.
Climb up to a templeBelieved to have been built by Raja Gopaditya in 371 BC, the Shankaracharya Temple offers a panoramic view of the valley. It is said that Adi Shankaracharya stayed here when he visited Kashmir in the early ninth century. Be prepared for a stiff climb though; to get to the temple, you have to walk up 150-odd stairs. Remember to leave your phones and cameras in the car.
Say goodbye with a wazwanOn my last night in the city I tried an authentic wazwan with Kashmiri dum aloo, paneer chaman, nadroo yakhni and Kashmiri saag. The meal was rounded off with phirni and Kashmiri kahwa.
