Making a comeback at Amazon India Fashion Week after a hiatus of three years, Payal Jain seeks to surprise by focusing on beachwear in her spring summer collection. Her show on Friday will be interesting for those familiar with her work as beachwear is an unfamiliar terrain for the designer, known for blending Indian craftsmanship with modern day western style silhouettes.
Noting that she has taken a classical approach in all her collections so far, Payal remarks, “For the Fashion Week I have experimented. It is a new space for me and experience. Last year, I was holidaying in Santeria in Greece and was enchanted by the picturesque scenery on the beach. As a designer there is one visual or thought which inspires you to go the whole hog. There is feminine look for ladies in beachwear.”
What distinguishes Payal from her contemporaries is the mix and match of different embroidery techniques. “Unless those in the audience watch my collection carefully they would not be able to make out that embroideries have been clubbed together. The use of embroideries is subtle and experimental with different combinations. So we have done delicate shadow work in chikankari , resham and dori work in bright splashes of colour, hand knotting and precious bugle beads. These have been intertwined with shell and bone accents to bring out the character of the hand-woven Dampach cotton textiles,” says Payal, who works with craftsmen of Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh and Bihar to bring their work into the mainstream.
Elaborating further on embroidery, Payal says, “Varied and diverse techniques have been combined in unexpected combinations to create interesting surface ornamentation and three-dimensional textures and treatments. Beautiful flowers and leaves are woven into the handloom fabrics which are draped into cool, comfortable and beachwear silhouettes to interpret the next season’s look.”
The designer has drawn inspiration from the myriad hues of the sun and sand, ocean and shores of Mediterranean islands. Other familiar elements of the region —Spanish guitar, barbecue stations, trinket corners and beach shacks etc. — also show up.
The accessories add to the story. “I have used them as fun element. Nomadic bohemian bags, patchwork totes, sling bags and clutches, multi-coloured backpacks, jewellery trimmed with bright pom-poms and tassels, aged silver coin bracelets, friendship bands, fringed wristbands, and beads. Then there are gladiator sandals.”
Describing her collection as earthy and organic, Payal says she has used lot of applique and texturing in red, blue and orange. “Fluid kaftans, not what are worn by the Arab men, but body suits. There has to be a feminine feel to my outfits. Then there are tunics, asymmetric ponchos, short and long sun dresses, floaty blouses, sheer boyfriend shirts, palazzo which have amalgamated with form fitted body suits and bathing suits, hipster shorts and bikinis in hot flaming hues and eclectic prints. The collection reflects my state of mind as bohemian, free, effortless and free flowing which are all part of this season’s look.”
But the classical approach has been retained as far as fabric is concerned. “Since the Amazon India Fashion Week is spring summer, I have not limited myself. My signature is using natural fabric, which I have retained by using hand-woven fabric from Banaras.”
Before every Fashion Week, Payal says she goes through WGSN, trend forecasting service. “This year too I have gone through it because it is more comprehensive, straight as far as international trends are concerned. It straightaway comes to the point. It is always good to refer. All the trends stay at the back of your mind.”
