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A stellar season of style

Anti-Fit is in

Anti-Fit is in  

This year’s edition of LFW brought to fore some startling new trends. The writer surfs styles, decodes trends and talks to designers to bring you the season’s winners

Beautiful saris teamed with cropped tops, flowing capes and peasant blouses! While such experimental styles played hide-and-seek many seasons ago, this time around, they are here to stay. The big push to quirky fashion comes from the current anti-fit wave that defies mannequin-like contours and body-con clothing. The runways at the recent Lakme Fashion Week showcased many street-style-meets-high-fashion-interpretations. That’s not all. A whole bunch of Instagram-ready looks came under the spotlight. Floral pant suits that mean business, the oh-so-cool trend of athleisure, new lessons in proportions with organza, all-new hybrid styles using bandhni, colour blocks that challenge palette rules, and much more.

Fitted Is Passe

Unconventional is the watchword when it comes to sari blouses. This season, the chic quotient is about gutsy choices. Forget snug-fitting cholis and try what designers call the blouse tops!

Designer’s Cut

Paromita Banerjee: It’s a huge delight to me whenever I wear saris. Usually, it is post-work, to events or functions. So an entire day in a sari makes me choose comfort over convention. And that’s what made me think about blouse tops. I can tell from experience that loose fitting blouses are extremely comfortable and look good with handwoven saris. Blouses cut away from the body are here to stay not just for the comfort factor, but also because they suit all body structures. At the recent fashion week, I teamed my saris with tops of varying lengths and peasant blouses for my ‘Salt of Life’ collection.

Tips and Tricks

Keep in mind the occasion. Not all of them demand unconventional styling. For example, traditional blouses work perfectly for weddings. If you are wearing a simple solid coloured sari, then you can perk it up with a wide printed or checked blouse. For the evenings, a hint of gold weaves is good. Matching jewellery completes the look. But most importantly, remember to wear your confidence on your sleeve when you make unconventional choices!

No Structure In This Style Story

A well-tailored fit is a default option in designer wear. Anti-fit is its antithesis. Today’s style stories have no structure. No form, but plenty of function. Designers and fashionistas are discovering the comfort of loose, free-flowing styles and endorsing this trend in a big way. So you don’t have to hold your breath while getting into an outfit.

Designer’s Cut

Mia Morikawa (of 11.11): Growing up in a time of baggy jeans, I have a natural association with this trend. Oversized is actually the perfect fit! Because it is comfortable with plenty of space to feel free. Anti-fit is a style statement of the nonconformist. Instead of squeezing yourself into something, you would rather see how things take shape and unfold different moods. Though the garments are loose, there are interesting silhouettes. Some anti-fits gently cloak the body, rounding off angles. Instead of worrying about the tummy sticking out or the thigh looking thunderous, you can dress for your wellbeing — not as an act for others!

Tips and Tricks

Anti-fit is not easy to pull off. It’s not about boyfriend blazers and oversized tees. It’s got a lot to do with carefully putting together a look. Think smart layers and play with extremes (loose tops with fitted pencil skirts or form-fitting blouses teamed with here-to-there palazzos). Belts can help cinch waists if you desire some semblance of form. Anti-fit is about finding the right balance with proportions.

Bandhni And Beyond

This season is all about inventive takes on traditional crafts. Designers have amped classic looks with fresh drapes using bandhni, shibori etc.

Designer’s Cut

Rahul Mishra: Bandhni is a craft that has been close to me because of the dexterity involved in making the tinniest possible knots on silk fabric. My LFW and Paris Fashion Week collections keep the purity of bandhni intact, while creating hybrid interpretations based on sportswear to make the collection look modern and acceptable around the globe. Fluid drapes combine with diaphanous fabrics to construct an asymmetrical and deconstructed look. It features deconstructed kurtas, bandhni bombers and biker jackets. The draping is inspired by the past, but the outcome is full of surprises! The sari dresses are as comfortable as a basic tee. The line encapsulates multi-cultural influences that seamlessly mix age textiles with silk bandhni.

Shibori is another highlight of the season. The work-intensive craft has been tweaked by designers to create fresh patterns.

Tips and Tricks

So much can be done by mixing and matching bandhni to make refreshing style statements. Though hybrid styles are in, be judicious in your choices to avoid visual cacophony. Blue, a dominant colour this season, does wonders with white accents.

Ode To Organza

When design ace Manish Malhotra’s showstopper Jacqueline Fernandez sauntered down the ramp in a cloud of delicate, dreamy organza at the LFW opening, one thing was clear — the wispy fabric was back on the fashion radar. In the shows that followed too, organza, that fits the sweet-not-sexy sensibility, was a celebrated fabric.

Designer’s Cut

Sahil Kochchar: Organza is synonymous with beauty and elegance. But it is not an easy fabric to work with. It is luxurious and sheer, and lends itself beautifully to soft, glamorous looks that are difficult to achieve with other fabrics. My current collection uses a lot of organza. Three dimensional appliqué has been done with hidden stitches and the sheerness of the fabric helped me create an element of intrigue with the clothes. People wonder how the appliqué has been done.

Tips and Tricks

Organza is not a fabric that behaves! If you are using it, avoid fitted shapes. Stick to easy and comfortable silhouettes, since the fabric has a tendency to drift away from form.

ALSO IN STYLE…

ASYMMETRY: Jagged hemlines make interesting style stories. The wonky looked wonderful in the creations of Archana Rao and Karn Malhotra who tried uneven hemlines. In an effort to move away from monotony, designers play with asymmetry in skirts, tops, dresses and even trousers!

ATHLEISURE: Yes, active wear gets upgraded and designers seem to say there is no finish line in fashion! The current trend can help you cross-over seamlessly from the gym to a lunch out with friends. Think track pant and sweat shirt-inspired silhouettes. Now you understand why this trend is catching on…

COLOUR BLOCK: A throwback to the 1960s – but with an all-new spin on the spectrum. From big names to Gen Next designers, the technique of using finite blocks of colours to add drama to outfits was the highlight of some defining ramp moments.

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Printable version | Jun 3, 2020 4:59:29 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/style-file-from-lfw-2016/article8451562.ece

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