Accessory designers are not the only ones to draw inspiration from costumes to narrate their stories. It works the other way round as well as our very own Kiran Uttam Ghosh drew motivation from textures of jewellery to create embroideries on the fabric for her show on the first day (Wednesday) of the Amazon India Fashion Week at Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium.
The explorer in her has come alive as she has worked with a “versatile metal” to showcase how it (silver) can be presented in its varied avatars. Her decision stems from the fact that she wanted to showcase classically delicate ensembles with a fine jewellery feel or as opulently rustic chunky pieces in tribal jewellery with accents of coloured stonework. “I have created silver in all its avatars as it is beautiful and I have always been obsessed by it. My bond with silver developed right from childhood. My grandmother had a special fascination for silver jewellery. So did my mother. My first client with whom I worked for 365 days was totally into silver. While meeting her requirements I started appreciating its beauty and aesthetics. All the experience and fascination for silver is reflected in this collection,” says Kiran, who works with weavers from Fulia and embroiderers from villages of West Bengal.
While Kiran has taken her obsession to another level, she has seen to it that the tone is sometimes shiny and sleek and at others, tarnished and rustic. Against a striking colour palette, the line travels from ethereally pretty to stylistically futurist to powerfully nomadic.
On the source of inspiration
Textures from jewellery are the inspiration for embroideries, textile selection and placements. Tones of silver against a striking colour palette travel from ethereally pretty to stylistically futurist to powerfully nomadic. I have done silver filigree work, with inserts of pearls and small crystals, beaten silver cuffs, collars, hemlines, chunky chokers, ear-cuffs. Sometimes modern, minimalist, conceptual jewellery; also Tibetan, Mongolian and Central Asian jewellery. Dark almost tarnished silver with inlays of turquoise, coral and other stones.
On infatuation with silver
Silver appears throughout the collection as it is a versatile metal used to create classically delicate ensembles with a fine jewellery feel, or as opulently rustic chunky pieces in tribal jewellery with accents of coloured stonework. Also silver can be presented in different forms – jewellery, delicate motifs, lighter and finer embroidery materials. It has some sheer elements as well as a wispy feel. Moving on to ensembles, they have an industrial finish. Rather than motifs, these ensembles rely on textures and surface techniques using cooler, experimental components thereafter evolving into pieces with inspirations from Central Asian jewellery – dark tarnished silver with inlays of turquoise, coral and other stones.
On dominant colours
We are highlighting silver greys, often with strong turmeric and ombre in yellow tones as an accent with silver embroidery. The tones varying from whitish silver to gunmetal, along with deep teals, blue greens, indigo blues along with the shades in between. I have created chokers, palm bracelets and ear cuffs in silver with filigree, pearl detail, dark grey diamante and minakari which would go with georgette, organza, chiffon and lot of handlooms.
The autumn winter range of women’s wear includes skirts, tunics, shirts, kurtas, lehengas, shararas, sarees, sarongs and drapes.