Inside the dragon’s lair

On Komodo Island that’s brimming with these dragons, ARUNA CHANDARAJU finds herself face to face with one

December 25, 2015 03:47 pm | Updated 06:44 pm IST - Chennai

MP

MP

No, dragons aren’t extinct.

They are very much alive and flourishing — in a corner of Indonesia. To be precise, on Komodo Island and Komodo National Park.

UNESCO declared Komodo National Park a World Heritage Site, given this island’s biological nature, and the fact that dragons are an endangered species. Komodo National Park includes three major islands — Komodo, Rinca and Padar — as well as numerous smaller islands, all creating a total surface area of over 1,800 square km. Komodo is part of the Lesser Sunda chain of islands.

The park houses around 2,500 Komodo dragons… such gigantic creatures! Of which, we had close encounters with five, with one of these being very, very close. And we survived to tell the tale as you can see.

These terrifying creatures are actually part of the monitor lizard family. In that sense, they are mammoth lizards; dread-inspiring animals. The dragon tag stems from their humungous size. They can grow up to three metres and weigh up to 165 kg. Also, their mouths drip with a deadly venomous saliva.

So, there were a few nervous reactions when we found Komodo Island on our itinerary. Finally, we decided to brave it. And face the dragon. A four-hour boat ride brought us to Komodo Island. We were taken to a clearing and given a briefing about the dos and don’ts during the trek into the interiors. These included: no provoking the animal in any way, watching it in complete silence, and keeping a safe, designated distance. We then set off, accompanied by a couple of rangers, who were armed with only long sticks – yes, just sticks.

Walking through the rugged volcanic land, we made our way through dusty paths surrounded by palm trees, savannahs and grasslands. There are plenty of deer, wild boar and a few birds. The park also houses animals like the wild buffalo, several species of snakes and monkeys, among others. Bird species include the orange-footed scrubfowl, the noisy friarbird, the lesser sulphur-crested cockatoo…

A few minutes later, we encountered our first dragon — a scary, scaly monster stretched out in the shade of a tree. At first, he seemed rather oblivious to our presence, and to the very audible gasps of wonder and clicks of cameras. A moment later, he raised his head, and then, slowly, his body. He looked more frightening than before. The ranger immediately signalled for us to leave, and we hastily obeyed him, walking away as quickly and noiselessly as we could, not daring even to look over our shoulder.

The next dragon was a somnolent one, though equally fearsome. Standing behind him we got a close look at his squamous body and long, deadly nails. In his broken English, the guard gave us some dragon facts. Komodo dragons have a lifespan of around 30 years to 50 years, are carnivores and also scavengers. Their food includes deer (a favourite), horses, water buffaloes, goats, long-tailed macaques, birds, bird eggs, and small creatures like chicks and rabbits. Komodo dragons are famous for being patient predators. They lay eggs, but are not inclined to parenting the child.

Dragons are also fond of basking in the sun, which is what we found the next one doing. A member of another group of visitors walking behind us got a little too eager for a close shot of the dragon with his camera, leading to a severe reprimand from the guide. Komodo dragons are safe to watch, as long as you stand at a reasonable distance and do absolutely nothing to provoke them.

The next dragon, too, was similarly lying on the ground, its scaly hide covered with dust, sand, twigs and leaves, and evidently, not minding this at all. My final encounter was unwittingly, very, very close and frighteningly so. But it was truly unintended, and I was not being foolhardy or mad.

To escape the oppressive midday heat, a dragon had moved away from the interiors and come to rest in an area designed as a resting place for visitors — a small platform with a roof, and open on all sides, with a few chairs and tables. The rest of our group had moved ahead of me. Taking photos, I had fallen behind. Unknown to me, at the bidding of the guide, they had gathered at the other end of this platform, and were watching the dragon, in utter silence, as one should.

I walked in from another direction, not noticing this fearsome creature, which was hidden from my view at that angle. I skirted a table and then walked past a chair only to stop, petrified. The dreadful beast and its mouth were only a couple of inches away from me. Frozen with fear, I stared at the monster for a moment. It stared back. And then I heard frantic whispered calls of my name and looked around to see the rest of the group beckoning with horrified expressions. I was terror-struck; their expressions had scared me even more. I gulped, muttered a silent prayer, and then gently, and as quietly as possible, I turned around and walked away, not daring to take a second look.

Two hours later, our Komodo adventure had ended. We returned to the entrance, and took the boat back to the mainland. Though the dragons overshadow everything, there is more to Komodo Island. There are superb diving locations, and some rate Komodo waters among the world’s best diving sites. The Komodo waters contain over 385 species of corals, thousands of fish species, green turtles, and various types of dolphins, whales, sponges, sharks and stingrays. Together with the mangrove shrublands and sea grass beds, they make for fascinatingly beautiful places both above and under water.

And human beings too live here. There is a population of over 2,000 — descendants of convicts who were exiled to the island and who have mixed with the Bugis from Sulawesi.

As with any endangered species, there are concerted efforts to protect them. The threats to their existence, climate change and habitat loss are being addressed. The harming of the dragon in any way is not permitted within Komodo National Park, and it is even forbidden to kill their prey.

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