In the lap of Godavari, all the time to sit and stare

Sohini Chakravorty explores the uncharted territory of the scenic Konaseema delta, where the river embraces the sea

January 05, 2012 06:33 pm | Updated July 25, 2016 07:03 pm IST

Delta Delight. Photo: Sohini Chakravorty

Delta Delight. Photo: Sohini Chakravorty

Traversing through a fertile region characterised by lush green fields and abundant coconut trees is the silent and mighty Godavari, about to meet the sea — that's Konaseema for you.

Located in the East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, Konaseema is still an uncharted territory despite offering an expanse of natural beauty. The unexplored delta region and its surrounding villages have much to offer, but it has not the caught the eye of regular tourist. One reason could be the poor local transport. Without a private cab arranged in advance, backpacking across the region on your own may not be a good idea.

The nearest town from Konaseema is Rajahmundry, which is an overnight journey by train or bus from Hyderabad. A two-hour drive from Rajahmundry will take you to the village of Matlapalem near Kakinada. The Green Valley guest house, built on 80 acres, is an idyllic place to stay. The two-bedroom cosy cottage has a porch with a hammock that faces a huge pond and a bobbing boat which can be taken out for a midnight ride. The restlessness of the fishes in the pond is the only sound breaking the monotony of the silence of the surrounding greenery.

The AP Tourism Development Corporation has the Haritha Coconut Country Resort in Dindi, which is again an hour and half ride from Rajahmundry. The resort has 33 river-facing rooms. Also Konaseema Tourism, a group which actively manages and provides travel packages in the region, has a beautiful resort. The Konaseema Resorts, managed by them, has rooms that kiss the banks of the Godavari. Fishermen out with their nets and locals crossing the river with their bikes mounted on boats are quite an interesting sight from the balcony. The APTDC has also introduced two room houseboats which can be booked for 12 hours.

Tucked away in the narrow dusty lanes are luscious paddy fields, shrimp fisheries and the long-winding river which provides breathtaking views. An hour-long boat ride through the Coringa mangroves, which is the largest in the country next to the Sunderbans, takes you to a green paradise. The mangroves are hardly sinister and beckon you with their beauty and tranquillity. The mangroves lining the banks of Tulya and Athreya, the tributaries of the Godavari, are a delight for birdwatchers as well. Different species of kingfisher, stork and cranes can be spotted here as also the jumping shrimps that race along the boat and can almost be caught into your fist.

The lazy meandering watery path eventually leads to the mouth of the delta where the muddy brown river meets the greenish blue waters of the Bay of Bengal. The Coringa Wildlife Sanctuary, a part of the river, offers a leisurely walk under a canopy of green.

Nearby is Yanam, the erstwhile French territory which falls under the jurisdiction of Pondicherry. Old-world charm rules this place: spotlessly clean roads lined by uniformly-built houses should be an inspiration for present-day urban planners.

Another place that should not be missed is Antarvedi where Vasistha, one of tributaries of Godavari, meets the Bay of Bengal. The long sandy stretches of the Antarvedi beach is a pleasant discovery — unspoilt as it hasn't succumbed to any commercial attractions yet. You can simply enjoy the waves crashing in at your feet and watch a million tiny shells forming beautiful patterns on the sand. The distinct change in the colour of water where the river merges with the sea throws an enchanting psychedelic illusion.

In addition to the picture postcard scenery is the delicious cuisine of the place. The region can be a paradise for any fish lover.

Fish caught in front of your eyes and made into a tangy pulusu is certain to tantalise your taste buds. It will be a crime to miss the elaborate Andhra thali served along with varieties of fish.

If you don't believe in sightseeing, then the region of Konaseema, with its resplendent scenery, can be simply enjoyed from the balcony of a resort with its panoramic view of the river. The best time to visit this region is during the winter when the weather is just right and the river is calm. Riding through the narrow lanes of the villages, where retail shops are miles away, one can experience the beauty of the slow and quaint rural life on the banks of the Godavari.

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