What's your type?

Designer Satkrit K. begins a regular column on everything fashionable. This time it's all about understanding your body type and accentuating have's and have-not's.

September 07, 2011 03:49 pm | Updated 04:41 pm IST

Fashion designer Satkrit K. Photo: Special Arrangement

Fashion designer Satkrit K. Photo: Special Arrangement

Being a fashion designer, I'm often asked this one question: “Why is men's fashion not as elaborate and evolved as woman's wear?”

Well, the answer is quite simple — women are not only the fairer of the two sexes but are the more self conscious and experimental of the two, and being unique and the individuality factor are of extreme importance...

Every woman is a unique composition of body type, skin tone, hair texture, hair colour, length and style and this list can go on endlessly… But for me, looking at it from a garment perspective, the first and the most prioritised factor to consider before picking up a garment is the body type that you fall under.

From the fashion perspective, women's body-shape and structure can be broadly classified into four:

Apple (inverted triangle)

This is when the upper body is larger and the measure tapers down as you go down towards the hips. Common features are large shoulders and bust and small waist and even smaller hip.

Here, the line of eyesight will go to the point that narrows down, in this case the waist. Hence, it would be a good idea to wear comfortable and fitted clothes which have more emphasis on the neck and higher grounds to keep the line of sight fixated there. I would recommend sophisticated monochromes. Low button wrap-around shirts and empire line dresses would keep the eye line away from the hips and would be a great idea to go with to even out the look.

It's advisable to avoid strappy dressing like spaghetti tops and halter dresses as that would expose the shoulders or upper arms and this might accentuate the area we are to cover up! Flowy skirts and loose pyjama type bottoms would pair well with the tops that you might wear. A tight trouser or fitted skirt would make the upper body look even bigger.

Celebrity Apples: Elizabeth Hurley, Catherine Zeta-Jones

Banana

This is for those women whose bust, waist and hips are all within a span of two to three inches difference, max. This would mean the figure would be quite boyish or straight like a banana and hence the name!

In this case there's the option of highlighting both the upper section and/or lower section of the body in a way that would accentuate a shape to the body. Denim with detailing on the hips or a blouse with a lot of gathers and ruffles around the neck, for example! Using the accessories right can also bring in serious visual appeal.

Tube dresses and jump suits are wonderful options too! Maxi dresses are right on trend this season and would look great on a tall slim frame. Reverse fittings of top and bottom would look rather smart…for example a really fitted top to go with a very flowy mermaid skirt or a baggy top with a pencil fit trouser would work just right for this body type!

Celebrity Banana: Cameron Diaz

Pear

It is a characteristic small-bust, medium-waist, and large-hips with small-thighs. Contrary to popular belief, it's not hard to dress up if you're a pear. Long tunics and kurtis are a must for those who are in this category but please ensure that they are long enough to cover the hips.

I would personally recommend darker colours for they are more slimming. For western tunics I would recommend choosing wider necklines like bateau, squared or cowl necks to show off the neckline and shoulders. Some pintucks or design features around the neck is a wonderful idea to draw the line of sight away from the mid section and towards the neck.

Celebrity Pears: Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce Knowles, Kim Kardashian

The Hourglass

This is for those whose bust and hip measures are almost the same and the waist measures six to nine inches lesser than the two. This is considered the more ideal, sexy and the most desirable figure to have and for good reason. To me, it's the easiest body shape to dress; nothing needs to be hidden or enhanced since your shape is already proportional and you can pull off just about any dress you choose!

Fitted clothing is most suited for the ladies who fall under this category. Pencil fit jeans are best suited for women who have a hour glass figure. Care should be taken not to over do the ruffles and gathers and other uncalled for volume. Accessorisation with a belt, a definite yes! Even while wearing a sari wearing the skirt really low would add a lot to the sex appeal!

Celebrity Hourglasses: Marilyn Monroe, Kate Winslet

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