For those who thought that it is simple for a man to dress-up for a formal occasion, they ought to have a chat with Delhi-based designer Ashish N. Soni. Armed with an exclusive 12-minute movie and installation, Making of Bespoke , he was in the city to show the nuances of suit making.
The designer, in collaboration with Chivas 18, hosted what they call an artisanal soiree, titled ‘Crafted for Gentlemen’ to highlight the art of bespoke tailoring and its nuances. Held at Sheraton Park Hotel and Towers, the screening of the film, was followed by a jazz performance and dinner.
“This event showcased what being a gentleman is all about. They drink fine whisky and invest in smart clothing and the evening was designed to celebrate them. Making a suit requires weeks of dedication, quite like making whisky and this is what we call artisanal soiree,” says Ashish, whose focus on bespoke services sets him apart from others.
Bespoke comes from the English phrase ‘To be spoken for’. In England, it was associated with the aristocracy. Eventually, what they wore began to be labelled as bespoke because of the manner in which it was made. They are tailored to the specifications and the make of an individual.
Making of Bespoke narrated the journey of bespoke clothing. “It starts from the time when linen was brought in huge boxes and tailored by experts and how it has evolved since then,” says Ashish, who has designed for top actors in the country, Saif Ali Khan being his favourite.
Through the installation, he showcased how a suit is made from scratch. “We have deconstructed a suit and showed how it looks at different levels of its making — when it is 20 per cent, 40 per cent, 60 per cent and 80 per cent complete. One can see the different components of a suit. All of us know what a shoulder pad is but how many have seen it?”
At the end of the show, style books were handed out. “This book will help you select the right suit — be it tailored or bought from an outlet. Many men commit the common mistake of wearing a striped shirt with a striped tie or a checked shirt with a striped tie. They wear light-coloured socks with dark coloured trousers. Always match the colour of the shoe with the colour of the belt. This guide will help them find the right fabric and also give tips on things to look out for when they buy a readymade suit,” he said.
