Working uninterruptedly on the looms of Banaras they are doing yeomen service in creating exquisite hand-made saris but this laborious craft hasn’t yielded fair monetary returns to our traditional weavers.
The situation is exacerbated by the fact thatthey are being given a miss today for western outfits. Fashion designers like Manish Tripathi, who understand the value of the craft, feel for the weavers. And that’s why the designer has set up a base in Banaras from where he intends to create outfits serving the clientele of West Asia.
Hailing from a middle class family of Lucknow, Manish fondly recalls how his mother used to preserve rare Banarasi saris like a treasure trove for a special occasion.
“Some of that craftsmanship is no longer in vogue these days. So reviving age-old technique is part of our agenda. We have set up an infrastructure to give a fillip to non-saris done in the traditional Banarasi style,” says the designer who heads the fashion label antarDESI. Manish’s designs have been worn by some top-notch actors and politicians.
For all its detailing, the Banarasi fabric is loved and appreciated by all and Manish is trying to adapt the fabric to outfits other than sari.
At the Research and Development Centre in Banaras, he is closely working with the weaving community in creating garments, catering to international buyers.
The biggest hurdle before the weavers is the middlemen who take a major chunk of the money away.
“I intend to eliminate middlemen and want the Ministry of Textiles to help in this direction. I also want the people to take pride in weavers and not pity them. We are teaching them how to create outfits other than sari using their age-old techniques. Though saris are in demand in Banaras and other parts of the country, we want to provide them better remuneration so it is necessary to create outfits other than sari,” explains Manish.
In this direction, Manish signed an MoU with Prince of Qatar to set up a fashion store at Doha.
“People in West Asia simply love Banarasi textiles, embroidery. And we would make sure that the craftsmanship of Banarasi weavers is apparent in the outfits we create for them. Most of the outfits would be in silk,” says Manish.
The need for research and development in Banaras was recognised at a time when local weavers were being overlooked.
“We set up our design studio on April 2, 2014. We visited Banaras several times to interact with weavers and provide the best work out of them. Broadly our vision is to rejuvenate the Indian handloom and textiles and reach the apex of fashion and textiles once again,” says Manish.
Manish feels that if India has to emerge as a major player in the global market then it has to upgrade the working condition of local weavers. “We need to introduce reforms in this sector.
These efficient and skilled craftsmen making exquisite designs must be given recognition and a better wage system must be adopted since their exclusivity and intricate work are unmatchable.
There have been efforts by the government to strengthen the weaving industry but not all weavers are availing benefits of various schemes because it is unorganised, the presence of middlemen and illiteracy.
With the help of the government, we are looking forward to improving the conditions of local weavers in India.”
