She has no qualms admitting that coming up with a bridal collection was not the easiest thing. Renowned fashion designer Deepika Govind says: “For some odd reason the word bridal never appealed to me. I've done ornamental clothes and Indian couture clothes but not specifically bridal wear. But with the passionate belief that I needed to offer an alternate bridal collection inspired by the South in feel and character, and in terms textile, drapes, understated elegant embroidery, and colour palette, I gave this a shot and came up with my latest offering ‘A Doll's House'.”
Inspired by Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen's play of the same title, this collection salutes the spirit of the protagonist the dreamer, the adventurer and the spirited persona.“This has been a very fascinating and stimulating journey for me. I've used regal Kancheevarams and Upaadas, balancing splendour and restraining opulence simultaneously,” the designer explains.
Deepika, who is known to blend silks and natural fibres to create finer new-age textiles, says there was no way she could escape using silk in this collection. “Silk is inevitable when it comes to weddings. This luxuriant fabric is connected with tradition, heritage, societal expectation, grandeur and sheen — all of which need to be put forth at a wedding.”
The bridal collection comprises three lines that bring out three distinct styles: The Warrior Doll, The Artist Doll and The Adventurer Doll. “All three dolls have an old-world charm. We have paid careful attention to the blouses in this regard. Buttoned up blouses make their presence felt hugely since the Warrior doll is prim and proper. I've incorporated patch work for the Adventurer doll.”
She has experimented with different textiles and drapes. “I've used crepe silk and checks that went out of fashion. To create a new look, I've used the Kerala mundu as an alternative drape. The Tamilian madisar also is part of this collection. The message I want to send out is that you don't need to beat the same old drum called the lehenga. I've explored different parts of the country in offering to a bride. There's really no need to discover. We have enough in our heritage to delve into,” Deepika asserts.
Very contemporary in character, the Warrior Doll consists of sinuous lehengas, intricate saris, and elegant kurtas. Organza tissues, kinkab, jamevars, jacquards and intricately-woven Ikats used here all reflect Deepika's love for traditional textiles. The embroidery is in ivory with richly sprayed antique gold peta work, highlighted with borders on fiery red brocades.
The Artist Doll is a complete contrast with luxurious brocades and organic silks with soft and decadent vintage prints. Lehengas, saris, kurtas and soft, sheer blouses echo the mellow grandeur of this collection. The Adventurer Doll imitates a free-spirited lady ankle-length panelled jackets over floor-grazing skirts, richly endowed with surface detailing.
“Through this collection, I'd want every bride to know that marriage does not mean having to chop off the identity that she went by until now. In Ibsen's play, the protagonist was always a subdued, submissive person. She had to act within that specific framework whether as a wife, as a mother or as a friend. But when she finally breaks free, she is spirited.”
She concludes: “I see the modern Indian woman as someone who is now standing up for herself and what she believes in; as someone who is strong enough to create her own identity in this otherwise patriarchal society. Women are the ultimate tribute to mankind!”
