It has many names…dupatta, chunni, chunari, odhni and Hindi films have sung many odes to it — one of the most popular one being — ‘Hawa mein udta jaye mera lal dupatta malmal ka’. Ironically, this old number seems to best describe how this piece of cloth, an integral part of the traditional trio — salwar, kameez and dupatta — is today revelling in its free-flowing nature. It is no longer just a protective clothing for women but has emerged as a formula-defying fabric with designers experimenting with its colour, width, length, shape and structure. Innovative draping styles have made the dupatta move away from its strong Indian roots to be a part of West-inspired contemporary silhouettes.
“Since most modern women love fuss-free attire, the dupatta looked like it was on its way out. It didn’t happen though with this interesting piece of clothing reinventing itself wonderfully to take on unconventional styles. It is now being used more as an accessory in contemporary ensembles. I have enjoyed working around its old-world charm and incorporating it in my design vocabulary. Sometimes, it may look like a sash worn across an outfit or could be used as a muffler around the neck, or even worn as a stole for a chic casual look,” says prominent designer Payal Singhal.
The designer explains how in its many modified versions, the dupatta now is seen on the runways and racks in different widths and lengths ranging from its original two metres to even four metres.
Chhaya Mehrotra whose romance with the dupatta can be seen in her lines shown at fashion weeks says, “Having grown up in Benaras in a family that was into textiles, I have always been fascinated about telling new stories through fabrics. And as for the dupatta, it is amazing to see how it has transformed itself to fit into the changing fashion sensibilities. For instance, apart from its classic appeal with embroidery on the body or borders, with gota, or Parsi gara at the edges and latkans at the four corners in beads, shells, ghungroos and silk tassels, it also now doubles up as head gear, belt and sash.”
Much of its new-age appeal lies in the draping patterns and structures.
“Apart from its usual rectangular shape, duppattas now also come in angular and asymmetrical forms. Then there are sheer dupattas that look extremely sensuous when worn with a heavily-embellished blouse or a figure-hugging top. Chiffon and georgette dupattas add elegance to simple kurtas. Then there are those who like to wear it with a pair of jeans, capris and palazzos.”
Though designers are working on it as a separate piece of cloth, it is important to make the dupatta integrate with the design of an outfit. “There has to be a coherence of colour, fabric and style. I like to look at the ensemble in its entirety,” says Sujata Pai of the label ambi.
“So much thought goes into creating these dupattas that sometimes clients come back to me with them after a few months requesting to add some suitable fabric and turn them into saris,” quips Sujata.
In this style-driven world you no longer need to play safe with dupattas!
