He's continent-hopping. Fittings for “Rockstar” in Prague, shopping for his styling assignments in New York, sauntering down the ramp in Kolkata and showcasing his designs in South Africa... all in less than a fortnight. But Manish Malhotra isn't complaining. And I don't complain either when he gives an 8.30 a.m. slot for our interview.
“I love the early mornings. It's been crazy, but work gives me a high. I went to Dubai recently for a four-day break but returned in two days!” begins Bollywood fashion's Renaissance man.
Cutting his work-is-a-whirl conversation short, he asks abruptly, “How does Enthiran (Robot) look? Saw the promos?” Even before I respond, he continues, “It's the icing on a repertoire of work that spans two decades. Working with a true-blue superstar like Rajnikath is an experience in itself. God, the man is so humble and grounded. And what about director Shankar? I think it's typical of people from the South — to be so talented, yet so modest.This is our second film together after ‘Sivaji: The Boss.'”
Like an auteur in charge of his fashion theatre, he explains, “Screen clothes have to look dramatic, yet be effortless for the wearer. Science fiction, fantasy or rom-com, to me realism is important when it comes to design. I believe in connecting with people through my clothes. If the audience can't imagine themselves in my creations, then I'm automatically distanced from them. ‘Robot' is futuristic, it's sci-fi. But I still wanted the costumes to have believable elements. So even the metallic line I've done is not bizarre. I wanted it to be refreshing when compared to other films in the genre where costumes are weird and un-wearable.”
The man who redefined Bollywood fashion with Urmila Matondkar's in-your-face sexy outfits in “Rangeela”, the Kapoor sisters' (Karisma and Kareena) experimental costumes, Kajol's effortless elegance and Priyanka Chopra's “Dostana” chic, says homework and hard work have seen him through his retail and film career. “I'm methodical. You'll seldom catch me spaced out. Director Shankar made my work a lot simpler by doing most of the homework himself. His clarity of thought helped the design process. ‘Robot' is unforgettable in many ways — the cast, the costumes and the locations. I made the longest journey in my life for this film — to Machu Picchu. It was for a soft romantic song and I've designed some delicate outfits for Aishwarya Rai.”
Retail and film worlds
The best thing about juggling the retail and the film worlds for Manish is the creative challenge. “In my retail business I meet a range of people — from young brides who want me to push boundaries and come up with something different for their trousseau to fashion-forward party-hoppers who demand dresses that deliver results! Screen fashion is something that has to be reinvented with every film. I can't give Priyanka the same Desi Girl look of ‘Dostana' for ‘Anjaana Anjaani'. So I've gone totally grunge. Cut up tees, knotted them and teamed them with shorts,” says the designer, whose salwar-tee combo played a starring role in “Jab We Met”. “Sometimes, I feel like the big daddy of Bollywood fashion. In the beginning, top designers looked down on films. Now, Bollywood has become a brand, and everyone wants to jump on the wagon.”
Having added sparkle to the clothes and costumes of every Bollywood star of significance — from Sridevi to Sonam Kapoor — Manish says, “People widen my horizon. And I understand changing mindset and adapt to it real fast. But at the same time, I don't compromise on anything relating to work. I give it my 100 per cent commitment. I love shopping and gorging on good food. I'm spurred by glamour and the larger-than-life-feel of cinema.”
That explains why the designer-stylist-television host is all set to wield the megaphone for a Karan Johar production. “Yes, it will take off soon. We are working out the details. It will be a musical. I welcome change; I'm looking forward to my directorial debut. But that doesn't mean my design assignments will take a backseat,” he adds, drawing a list of B-town hotties with whom he has appointments for the day.
Recent Work: I Hate Luv Storys, We Are Family, My Name Is Khan
Upcoming: Anjaana Anjaani, Action Replayy, Rockstar, Robot
Turning point:
Rangeela: It created a new look book
Meeting MJ: It was awesome meeting Michael Jackson and designing for him
Tweetchic: I love those little exchanges in the virtual world. Because in the physical world, we seldom have the opportunity to cross paths with people we know. But my spelling, it's terrible!
To my credit
Making shimmering chiffons a statement (think Sridevi)
Indo Westerns that Madhuri Dixit wore in Dil To Pagal Hai
Turning the spotlight on sheer fabrics
Bold experiments with colour