For their small size, the British Isles pack quite a punch. When visiting the United Kingdom, it is easy to be ensnared by the energy and thrum of London, and not venture beyond. For those who do, the rewards are rich.
I set off with a friend on a journey to explore the southernmost tip of Cornwall, a favoured destination among British holidaymakers, who want the combination of rugged landscape, surf, sand and locally-caught seafood without bruising their passports.
It is a long but glorious train journey to Penzance in Cornwall, with several stops on the way. Our journey took us further onto Lizard Point, at the very tip of mainland Britain. We put up at the YHA Lizard Point hostel, an accommodation option made extraordinary because of its location. Perched on a peninsular cliff that overlooks dramatic coastal scenery, the hostel is adjacent to a working lighthouse that has been illuminating the path for vessels passing the English Channel for centuries.
The view from the hostel room was spectacular, the Atlantic Ocean spreading out as far as the eye could see. Coupled with its peaceful location and the brisk sea breeze circulating the hostel dormitory, we could not have chosen a better weekend retreat.
We went cliff walking on the first evening, following the narrow path lacing the sea face of the cliffs. The waters looked deceptively calm, belying the fact that this patch of the ocean has claimed several seafaring victims over centuries: there are treacherous rocks just under the water surface. We looked out for seals and other animals known to be frequenting the waters off the peninsula, but had to contend with just greenish-blue clear waters, and the random crab scuttling about.
After walking nearly a mile, we rested upon rocks that resembled rough-hewn seats, surrounded by a carpet of yellow and mauve spring blossoms. I am yet to see a prettier place for rest and repose.
We had dinner at Polpeor Café, mainland Britain’s most southerly café, tucking into excellent fish pie and warm apple crumble, while gazing out at the arrestingly beautiful sight of ocean waters dashing against the cliff face.
Lizard Point is located in a designated area of outstanding natural beauty, and its most famous attraction is Kynance Cove, touted as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. We set off the next morning for the cove, two city slickers huffing and puffing our way for nearly three miles. The walk was as spectacular as the destination itself: we chanced upon rare flora and fauna unique to the Lizard peninsula, patted Shetland ponies as they grazed on the hardy vegetation of the cliffs, all the while walking alongside cerulean waters with the sun warming our faces and the sea breeze cooling us.
Kynance Cove lived up to the hype of being the most photographed and painted location in Cornwall: no small feat, considering this corner of the island has several worthy contenders. This cove takes the top spot due to the dramatic beauty created by the contrast of white beach sand and dark green serpentine rocks surrounding the cove. It is an otherworldly place, where families picnic on the soft sands, children chase crabs and lovers walk hand-in-hand, all mesmerised by its overwhelming beauty.
We had to wrench ourselves away from the beach as the sun began dipping and the tides swelled, but something equally wonderful awaited us.
Kynance Café, situated a stone’s throw away from the cove, offers the freshest scones, which we gulped down with a copious amount of fresh Cornish clotted cream, jam, and a hot pot of tea. The perfect ending to a perfect trip.
