If you grew up in Delhi at a certain period of time, the Chankaya Cinema would have been a part of your life. This was, as you can tell, long before the coming of multiplexes. Delhi had a number of cinema halls, but English films were shown only in a few — and mostly at Chanakya in Chanakyapuri and Archana in Greater Kailash. I saw some of the best films of the ’70s and ’80s in these halls.
Chanakya was a particular favourite because it was in the centre of town. Some years later, the theatre added new dimensions to film watching. A Nirula’s outlet opened in Chanakya, and a movie usually meant a pizza before or after a show. Then, a new edifice called Yashwant ‘Palace’ (Place) came up adjoining Chanakya, and it became a little hub for foodies. Much before momos became a part of Delhi’s regular diet, little stalls in Yashwant Place started selling hot momos filled with minced chicken, mutton or cabbage, and served with a lethal red sauce.
Other shops came up. And while I am told that there was a time when anyone who wanted a leather jacket just had to go to Yashwant Palace, I started going there for the new food outlets. One of the restaurants I liked was Al-Kuresh. I went there last week, and found that I still like it!
It’s mostly haunted by young people, who go there not just for some good Muslim food but for its sizzlers and Chinese fare. I like a good sizzler myself (especially those ones with sausages, lamb chops, chicken patties and fried eggs) but I had been dying to eat some koftas. There was a time, not so long ago, when I used to cook some pretty good koftas at home. But I have given it up — at least for a while — since the procedure is a bit tedious. But the heart wanted koftas, so I went to Al- Kuresh (shop number 7; phone numbers: 24102333, 26880333 and 9871047786). I asked for a plate of mutton Bukhara kofta (Rs.200 — boneless, the menu said helpfully) and mutton shahi biryani (with three pieces of meat), also Rs.200.
If you like your koftas light, I would suggest that you try out an Italian restaurant somewhere. The koftas at Al-Kuresh are nice and spicy, and very, very meaty. The thick gravy is brownish-orange, and full of red chillies and other spices (and quite a bit of oil as well). I ate a kofta (there were three fat balls in the gravy) with some rotis and onion rings at home, and enjoyed it thoroughly. The biryani wasn’t bad either — the meat pieces were substantially large, yet rather tender. The rice had a spicy taste to it, which I didn’t mind at all.
I rounded off the meal with a jugful of water — which I needed to douse the fire within me. Then I had a very nice gooey and creamy chocolate éclair procured from our neighbourhood patisserie (called Chawla’s). The éclair did its bit in countering the hot taste that still lingered. All in all, I thought later (while chewing some fennel seeds), that it was quite a nice meal. Chanakya, the cinema, may have downed its shutters, but I am happy to know that the momos and the mutton koftas are still going strong.
