Time does funny things. United Coffee House (UCH) and its three generations of proprietors know it well. From 1942, when it opened its doors to Connaught Place and Delhi then gripped by Quit India fever, till today, turbulent chapters in this 70-year-old restaurant's life have been many.
“At one time, the idea of a multi-cuisine restaurant went for a toss — Jack of all trades, master of none. Then you were criticised for being an old place serving Mughlai. Then you become vintage and are suddenly photographed,” the subtle irony comes through when Akassh Kalra, director, United Group of Restaurants, recounts his family's journey with one of the landmarks of Connaught Place, even as the media makes a beeline to unravel the secret behind its success at 70 and counting. At UCH, nothing much has changed, yet changes are many. “If you come in and don't smell coffee, find people sitting back and reading a novel and the ambience relaxing” it is not UCH, says Akassh. But “keeping pace with times” is the watchword adhered to religiously.
“There are customers who have come here for the past 30 to 40 years for their morning coffee before going to their shops; for 15 to 20 years groups have come for their Sunday breakfast… there are those who say the coffee blend today is not exactly the way it should be or ask if the sandwich cheese has been changed,” says Akassh. While UCH revels in the fame of its tomato fish — on the menu since 1962 — or cheese balls, millions of portions of which have been served till now, Akassh is mindful of tomorrow. “I want teenagers to know about our mezze platter, risottos and pasta.”
The bridge from past to future is being carefully made by Akassh and his team. Long gone are the long fans that dangled from UCH's dizzyingly high ceilings. “In the 1950s, we got new Carrier air-conditioners imported from the United States, which ran for 30 years. Now there are, of course, new ones,” he says.
Earlier, ‘marketing' meant being close to guests, finding out what is growing in favour and what is on its way out. Now, there are the feedback forms, an active website and more plans. “We want to sell some merchandise, which will allow UCH to travel to your house,” says Akassh, even as the group expanded to include United Westend, Sequel by United and United Catering Services.
For the young owner who joined the restaurant at 16 and has been in the midst of this bustle for 20 years, Akassh says it is the old patrons who have shown him the path ahead. “I have seen Khushwant Singh here, M.F. Husain, Shovana Narayan, artists and technocrats, politicians and film stars. Once Rishi Kapoor was here reading a script. He did not move for five hours and that's when we realised it was him.”
For him, much like the family business, the bonds are also one of continuity. UCH, he knows, was a favourite of the former Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri, who always had a specific row of tables for him. “Now his grandsons come,” he says. At the one-time cafeteria serving coffee, snacks and savouries which mindfully metamorphosed into fine-dining, at UCH celebrated chefs were scooped together from Old Delhi to create their signatures. “Most of the old chefs retired 15 years ago; their children have jobs here, they get trained by their forefathers. They do food our way, our customer's way, whose palate we know,” says Akassh.
UCH stands for its unique taste for its unique customers. For them the towering mutton samosa, the Nargisi kofta with whole eggs wrapped in lamb mince and Thai curry which will be unlike what is found in a Thai restaurant.
