Over 150 years ago, Khadaun or wooden sandals were the in thing, especially among a section of people in Kashmir, who claimed to be pious, and refused to use the ‘impure’ leather. With wooden footwear in demand, craftsmen in the area began innovating on its designs. One of the famous techniques developed in the era was Tarkashi, which involves inlaying of shiny brass metal wear in wood. As years went by, Khadauns became irrelevant, but the craft survived, and is still practised by a handful of artisans in a small village called Mainpuri in Uttar Pradesh.
“The technique spread across mediums. British armour and rifles were carved and inlayed. After Independence, the artisans did the same on large wooden boxes. Now, we ask them to adopt the same on utilities like coasters, lamps and tableware, to keep pace with contemporary times,” says 23-year-old Bhavya Gupta, a graduate of NIFT Bhopal, who founded Studio Enoy that collaborates with the Tarkashi artisans to produce home decor and textiles, in 2014.
Similarly, the craft of lac-turnery, where artisans create turned-wood products and then apply lacquer of bright and vibrant colour, used in Channapatna toys, is now used on lamps and pen holders. The tattoo designs of flora and fauna used by the Toda tribe in the Nilgiris, to differentiate themselves from the rest of the tribes on the hills, have translated into a famous embroidery design in yardage and neckpieces. The traditional cloth-based scroll paintings, or Pattachitra, which were believed to be used as substitutes for worship on days when the temple doors were shut for the ‘ritual bath’ of the deity, are now used in bookmarks, wedding invitations, and jewellery.
Rajeshwari Endapalli, secretary at the Crafts Council of India (CCI), which works with artisans across India, considers this old-wine-in-new-bottle trend a big hit. “Over the years, there has been a drop in interest for traditional crafts. They are beautiful, true, but how much can one buy them just for their aesthetic value? Now, translating them into items that are useful is definitely a step forward.” CCI, for its second edition of Craftepreneur, has handpicked 20 entrepreneurs who work with artisans to create contemporary products, to display their works in the city, till October 31.
Today, there are a bunch of people, a majority of them youngsters — pass outs from NIFTs — who are utilising the skills of the artisans and giving them a sustainable living in return. Gina Joseph from Chennai, who is pursuing a degree in Crafting Business and Lifestyle Business at IIM Ahmedabad, works with artisans from Odisha (Pattachitra and Dhokra, a metal casting technique), Andhra (leather puppetry), Rajasthan (Patwa threading) and Kerala (murals). “I don’t uproot them from their places; instead, I go and stay with them in their villages for a week, and we brainstorm ideas for my jewellery. They are paid then and there; their salary is based on the credit from my sale. This way, they earn a regular income, pay for their children’s education and loans,” she says.
Yet another couple, Amitra Sudan Saha and Santosh Saha, graduates in fine arts and designing, has adopted a village Nawadwip in Bardhaman, West Bengal, which includes around 60 weavers. “The community is known for its weaving technique for generations. We realised that the younger generation was moving away from the art for jobs in Ayurvedic parlours in Kerala. We intervened and offered to pay them the same Rs. 12,000 that they would get if they worked in a parlour,” says Amitra, who retails the Jamdani-worked saris to Amethyst here among other stores in India. “They do Jamdani embroidery on the finest of mals. It’s a rare skill, and we don’t want to see it dying, do we?”
Must buys
Aura’s ‘healthy’ textiles. Their range includes block & batik printed organic cotton and khadi fabrics are all herbal dyed.
Sparkle Berryz’ chic ethnic jewellery inspired by the berries you eat
Aiyana’s bags done using fine crochet and phulkari techniques
Studio Saswata’s handcrafted agarbatti stand or crew of traditional dolls
Varnam’s doorstoppers inspired by Channapatna toys
The exhibition opens today at Lalit Kala Akademi, and is on till October 31, between 10.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.
