Some 20 years ago, I discovered a beautiful little paradise in Delhi’s own backyard. I had heard of Landour but never gone there; convinced that anything that had a Mussoorie address wasn’t worth a visit. Then a friend who had heard about the place from her friend persuaded us to drive up there. Five of us sat in my little Maruti 800, which twisted and turned in a way that would have done Shammi Kapoor proud, and brought us to Landour.
Since then, I have gone back there some 20 times – and loved it as ever. For one, it is just seven hours from Delhi (by road, if you start early enough, or by train, which takes you to Dehradun, from where you can hire a taxi). Two, the place is as calm and picturesque as ever because it is part of a cantonment area, because of which no ugly buildings can be constructed there. Three, the food is delicious.
Of all hill stations, I think Manali has the best food to offer. But Landour is a surprise, too. When we first went there, we stayed in a pretty little guest house called Redburn Oaks. The cook – Makkhan Lal, alas no more – prepared all kinds of delicious food for us, including crispy roast chicken and melt-in-the-mouth ginger pudding. When that bungalow was acquired by an industrialist, we moved to Devdar Woods – a lovely cottage with an old, old deodar tree and delightful pizzas.
The last few times I was there – this summer, last October and a year or two before that – I found that in a new hotel called The Rokeby Manor dwelt the most surprising restaurant. The hotel was there earlier but it was more of a hostel really for foreign students. Now it’s a spanking new place and the restaurant, Emily’s, serves the most delectable dishes.
But let’s start with Devdar Woods. Many years ago, Anil Prakash, who runs the cottage, went to Switzerland to learn about cheese making. Somewhere down the line, he also discovered that there is nothing that young students like more than a pizza-oozing cheese and tomato sauce. So he trained his cooks to bake the best pizzas in and around Mussoorie, which is peppered with public schools. If you go to Devdar Wood on a weekend, you’ll find people of varying ages and sizes stuffing their face with warm pizzas with crusty bases and awesome toppings – from pepperoni to colourful vegetables and spiced chicken. Anil also makes his own cheeses, which he sells, along with a host of other interesting foodstuff, at his shop, Prakash.
This summer, I found that they have added to the menu other dishes too – including a nice grilled chicken with vegetables and mashed potatoes.
In Emily’s, if the weather permits, you should sit out in the small balcony, and hear the rustling trees as you cut into a well herbed and grilled fillet of salmon or spoon into a hot, potato-covered shepherd’s pie or a creamy chicken stroganoff. My favourite there is its club sandwich – chunks of bacon and ham, along with a well fried egg, nestling between slices of bread. One huge bite from the club sandwich will bring back your faith in humankind, especially after you’ve followed that up with some crispy potato wedges dipped in tomato ketchup.
In the evenings, when you are feeling a bit peckish after your heavy lunch (yes, it’s the mountain air), you can take a walk down a scenic road that winds itself around the little town. Lined by velvety deodar trees, the road is long and winding, and leads you to Char Dukaan.
Char Dukaan got its name from the fact that there were just four shops once. Even now, I think there are only five or six shops there. Two or three of them have little kitchenettes (a couple of stoves, really) which rustle up for you the most delectable snacks. My favourite haunt is Vipin’s corner shop called Tip-Top. Vipin will serve you coffee, chocolate or the most divine lemon honey tea. And you can sip that while you wait for him to bring to your table a crispy pancake oozing melted banana or a bun-omelette – a thick and mildly sweet bun stuffed with an onion-tomato omelette. If you like your morning walks, you should walk up the circular road and have your breakfast – waffles, pancakes and what have you – at Vipin’s.
I think it’s time I planned my 21st visit.
Landour: Eat, Shop and Pray
About 990 feet above Mussoorie, Landour is rich around 300 kms from Delhi via Dehradun.
Eat at Tip Top
Shop at Sisters’ Bazaar
Pray at St. Paul’s and Kellog's Church
Recommended reading: “Landour Days” by Ruskin Bond
