Food spot Metroplus

Appus of happiness

Fare on offer at Appus.

Fare on offer at Appus.   | Photo Credit: 05dmc rahul2

For a delicious Kerala meal, head to the new eatery in INA Market

I found myself crossing INA Market after a very long time. It was quite a favourite haunt of mine when the Barapullah flyover –– that wonder road connecting Sarai Kale Khan to INA Market first came up. But for the last many months, the INA exit has been blocked, so I find myself taking circuitous routes while going to south Delhi. But earlier this week, when I went past that bustling market on my way to meet a friend, I got all nostalgic.

So on my way back, I stopped for a while to look at the small Kerala enclave in the market. Friends had been telling me about a new eatery there called Appus and going gaga over the buff curry they’d eaten. So I went in search of it, and found it right in front of me in the Mohan Singh Market area in INA.

This part of INA, as you would know, caters mostly to Malayalis, and Kerala-food loving non-Malayalis. There are these small restaurants where you can have a delicious Kerala meal consisting of appams, chicken stew, fish curry, vegetable korma and what have you. The last time I was there, I had eaten at Anna’s. This time, my destination was Appus, which has now replaced Anna’s.

The Kerala eateries mostly cater to the large number of Malayalis working in the hospitals in the neighbourhood. So on the menu is everything from breakfast (iddiappam: Rs.10; pottu: Rs.50; kappa: Rs.50) to lunch and dinner (fish fry: Rs.70; chicken roast: Rs.120; chicken curry: Rs.100; mutton curry: Rs.160; egg masala: Rs.70).

I had many questions to ask the man at the counter, but he spoke no Hindi or English, and my knowledge of Malayalam didn’t go beyond Elippathayam which was not quite the right word to utter in a restaurant. But with some creative gestures and a bit of luck, I managed to convey what I wanted –– two plates of buff fry, one plate of buff curry, one plate of chicken curry and four porottas. The bill came to Rs.420.

That was our dinner and I must say I was very happy with Appus. The porottas were nice and soft, and not the least bit rubbery. I enjoyed the rich chicken curry (I had just the curry, but could see that the chicken pieces, including a drumstick, were substantial). The pothu fry which has been one of my favourite Kerala dishes for long was excellent: hot, spicy and flavoured with curry leaves.

The buff curry was, as the friends had said, delicious. The gravy was not very thick, but so redolent with flavours that I found myself going for a second helping. With the porottas, these made for an excellent dinner.

The meal made me realise how much I’d been missing Kerala food. The Barapullah Flyover better open up fast. The unending road work has been violating my right to movement and food.

Add: Shop No. 2015

Tel: 9990875177.

(The writer is a seasoned street food connoisseur)

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Printable version | Mar 31, 2020 12:58:29 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/appus-of-happiness/article7949487.ece

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