The Andaman islands have traditionally been the refuge of the mainland Indian honeymoon couple — white sand beaches, crystal-clear aqua, breathtaking sunsets and stellar stargazing opportunities are aphrodisiac enough; forget the fresh oysters on the table. But beyond the handholding and the purple prose, there’s a little-explored side to the archipelago that offers much for the millennial Indian in search of an adventure.
Port Blair offers regular sightseeing options in the form of memorials and museums, but you’d need to hop on a ferry to get to the ground zero of action, Havelock Island. With only a few thousand inhabitants and a handful of stunning beaches, Havelock offers something for everyone: the chilled-out tourist looking for beer, beaches and books, and the intrepid explorer looking for more.
The topography also includes long-range hills and evergreen forests, all too often ignored by its sunbathing visitors. Elephant Beach gives you the best of both worlds – a tiny protected stretch of sand accessible by boat or after a short trek. Rent a scooter or hop on to a local bus toward Radhanagar Beach, the island’s most popular – and perhaps only – tourist destination. Watch out for a small signboard on the right side of the road – it’s the only indicator of this hidden sight.
Get there early to avoid the blazing hot sun and getting stuck in the forest area after dark. While you can opt for a guide into the forest, the path itself is well-trod and minimally exacting. Definitely not for the faint-hearted, you’re probably going to want a companion along.
The two-kilometre-long trek takes about 40 minutes to complete, winding up and down into progressively thicker forest. You’d be tempted to wander off along the enticing recesses of the forest, but that’s the adrenaline talking; first-timers would do well to stick to the main trail.
A few hundred metres from your destination, the roar of the waves will be the most welcoming sound.
With coral reefs just a couple of metres below the water, this is a great spot for snorkelling. If the trek has sapped your energy, find a quiet spot near a fallen tree and snooze or read. Head back before the sun sets though, giving yourself a one-hour buffer to navigate the forest trail.
Renting cycles on the island is an experience in itself: none of them come with locks. The common refrain is that they can be left anywhere for any amount of time, and nobody would steal them. And if they did, the hand-painted name of the owner on the wheel guard would be the handiest locator system. Cynical city minds will shake their heads in disbelief, but the islands operate on the principle of honest eco-tourism.
Head toward Kalapathar Beach to catch the sunrise, and you’ll be whistling past Vijaynagar Beach on one side and swaying coconut palms on the other. Break at the beach to soak your feet. Top up with some fresh coconut water and plod ahead.
Traffic after the beach nosedives, and more often than not, you’ll have the road to yourself. It’s a winding path toward the residential and field sides of the island. Getting lost here is not an option, try as you might, and whichever fork of the road you choose, you’re sure to enjoy a peaceful countryside jaunt.
And if you’re the nocturnal kind, don’t miss the return journey under the night sky. The sun sets early on Havelock, which follows the mainland Indian time zone, despite being closer geographically to Thailand. Any time after 6 p.m. gives you a chance to admire the galaxy stretched out above you, and cycling in the moonlight is a rare pleasure for the city slicker. For a hundred rupees a day, this is one of those few magical things money can buy.
If overland activity isn’t your thing, the Andaman Islands feature unmatched underwater visibility and exotic marine life for an ocean experience. For the hesitant, a half-day scuba diving expedition is available.
Spring for the certification courses though, with the additional underwater photography and videography facility. They require a few hours of watching videos and test taking, both of which can be done at home before you embark on the trip. These are quickly disposed of though, and you can head straight to the training ground — the open waters. The ability to swim, or at least be comfortable in water, is an important prerequisite, so make sure you have a few swimming classes under your belt.
Nemo’s Reef is known as the classroom reef for a reason — it’s an extremely accessible dive site swarming with eager learners. Schools of clownfish bubble past continuously, lending colour to the bleached coral, which explains the name.
At the deeper Peel Island lighthouse dive site, swim alongside barrel sponges and octopus as you circle the reef. More experienced divers head to the famous Wall — a sheer drop down a sand channel between Havelock and Peel islands, the ocean currents regularly bringing in underwater life.
With an early sunset, Havelock is mostly quiet post dusk. Head to the local market to feast on the fresh catch of the day and walk back to your accommodation to rest and recuperate for the next day.
