There are times in life that demand vast amounts of self-control; the agonising, teeth-gritting, nails digging into the palm of your hand kind. It’s a feeling that unites every person who fasts in the month of Ramadan, as they sit in front of a plate of food, minutes away from breaking their fast at the Iftar meal.
Ramadan requires Muslims to fast from sunrise till sunset, without a morsel of food or sip of water, for a period of one month. Iftar is the meal that is eaten at sunset to break the fast. It is usually commenced with a few dates and water; humble beginnings of the elaborate meal that follows.
Iftar is a tradition that’s spanned centuries and evolved through various cultures. It takes different forms, depending on the situation. Sometimes, it’s a quiet sit down affair at home, after a long weary day at work or school. Other times, it’s an Iftar party, the premier social events of Ramadan, accompanied by the chaos of dozens of guests gathered under one roof, as a frazzled host family tries to ensure that there are enough dates to go around. The first bite of food is taken a minute after the sun sets, and breaking the fast is a feeling that’s a mixture of many; absolute satisfaction, relief, and a genuine sense of gratefulness for the food in front of you. Then, the feast begins.
With more than ten hours spent without any nourishment, food that replenishes the body is a vital part of the menu. A staple starter for Muslim communities throughout the south is kanji. It’s a broth that consists of rice and lentils, cooked with a special masala, made of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, tomato, onions and minced meat, garnished with coriander leaves. Kanji is famous for being extremely filling and nutritious; a food that fortifies the body for what can be an exhausting month. It is usually accompanied by a few samosas and mint chutney.
Here are some restaurants in the city, that offer Iftar:
ANISE, TAJ COROMANDEL
Address: 37, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam Tel: 30925988
PALMSHORE RESTAURANT
Address: New No. 108, Santhome High Rd, Pattinapakkam Tel: 4210 2244
AASIFE BIRYANI
Address: Opp Cantonment Kalyana Mandapam, Butt Road, St. Thomas Mount Tel: 2232 2223
YALLA YALLA, RADISSON BLU
Address: 531, GST Road
FISHERMAN’S FARE
Address: 24, CASA Major Road, Egmore Tel: 2819 4840
Historically, many dishes eaten in India for Iftar originated in various parts of the Middle East, and were brought to the subcontinent by traders and immigrants after the Mughal conquests. The food eaten today is a mix of Arab and Persian flavours, infused with regional spices, with recipes handed down from generation to generation. Haleem, for example, has Arabic influences, but found itself a part of local cuisine through a strong Middle Eastern cultural presence in cities like Hyderabad. It’s one of the best sources of protein, and consists of soaked wheat, barley and lentils added to a spicy, rich meat korma consisting of extremely tender meat. Cooked for up to six or seven hours, it obtains a thick, paste-like consistency and is then garnished with mint leaves, fried onions and even lime, making it one of the most in-demand dishes of the season. The Arab connection continues because a large number of Muslims claim Arab ancestry and cook similar dishes in tribute to their heritage. The falafel, a common street food in the Middle East, is a light, nutritious snack that many families are starting to serve at Iftar. Usually eaten with pita bread and humus, it consists of ground chickpeas and coriander, mixed with garlic and spices and toasted with sesame seeds. It is flattened into round circles, and then either fried or baked. Fasting is known to shrink a person’s stomach and their eating capacity with time, which makes the falafel a perfect way to break the fast; it provides a boost of energy without making a person feel lethargic.
Dessert is eaten either before or after Maghreb, the prayer at sunset, and for the Kilakarai Tamil Muslim community, there is one very important ingredient that defines it: seaweed. China grass pudding is a favourite way to end the meal, and is made of long, transparent dried-up seaweed that’s boiled in hot water until it dissolves into a jelly-like substance. It is then added to milk and sweetener. It’s an important part of the community’s culture, and originated when their sea-faring ancestors stumbled upon the ingredient while trading with the Malaysians and Chinese.
Iftar is many different things for many different people, but one thing remains the same: the coming together of a family and community to sit down together, say a few words of prayer and indulge in a meal that makes the wait worth it.
