There is something about people who are passionate about food. I find their company exhilarating — not just because they can talk about food, but because they like to share their experiences and expertise as well. Arun Kumar is one such man.
I met him at a friend's house several months ago, where he had prepared the most exquisite crabs cooked in the Kerala style.
The next time we met, he had rustled up a whole Parsi menu, and I particularly remember the salli boti, meat served with juliennes of fried potatoes.
On the third occasion, he had cooked all kinds of superb dishes with raw mangoes. That's why, when I heard that he was taking care of the food at two outlets of Zambar, I was excited.
Delicious Andhra chutneys
I had visited Zambar, a pan-Asian South Indian restaurant, when it first opened up in Gurgaon.
Then, a couple of weeks ago, Arun invited me to try out Andhra coastal food at the outlet in Ambience Mall in Vasant Kunj. I went, I ate, and I was conquered. I am, in any case, very fond of Andhra food.
We had a neighbour from the state who used to prepare the most delicious of Andhra chutneys. Time was when I liked nothing more than a thali at Andhra Bhawan.
At Zambar, too, there were various kinds of thalis on offer, as part of a festival called “The Andhra Delight”. The festival is over, but quite a few of the delicacies that were a part of it will be found on the regular menu.
The vegetable thali was for Rs. 450 plus taxes, the non-vegetarian thali for Rs.525 plus taxes and the coastal thali for Rs. 625 plus taxes.
I was given a mix of the thalis and had a delicious time. The rasam was just the way I like it — hot enough to clear your sinuses.
The sambhar was thick and fragrant. Usually, Andhra sambar is a bit sweet, but they had toned it down at Zambar. In fact, I felt some of the dishes should have been hotter; Andhra food, after all, can give the best dragons a run for their money when it comes to fire-spewing nostrils. But I think the chefs have bowed to popular demand and gone easy on the spices.
It's hot
Still, even with a lower content of red chillies, the food was delicious.
I particularly liked the kodi kurra, Andhra chicken curry, which is eaten with medhu vadas. The vada was just right — soft inside and crunchy outside — and went really well with the chicken.
The pappu tomato, a tangy dal, was nice as well, and I loved the pesarattu (a moong dal dosa), which was simply superb, as was the prawn cooked in a thick sauce.
The restaurant stresses that Andhra food is more than just chillies and is based on a wide variety of spices. I believe that, but must admit that I missed the chillies a bit.
All in all, though, it was a meal that one remembers. Andhra food is hot, even when it's not hot.
