Kerala is known for a great many things, particularly the ‘God’s Own Country’ tag and the serene backwaters always front and centre in tourism campaigns. But another part of the culture of the State that has become so common it is not considered a specialty anymore is the Malayali’s love for tea.
Whether it is early in the morning, after a long journey, or even after dinner, tea is the go-to beverage for most people who need a pick-me-up. As rain clouds shroud the city, creating an atmosphere perfect for tea drinking, it is as good a time as any to find out more about the tea culture in the city.
Minu Pauline, owner of Pappadavada, says that for the office going public, a tea break is a daily routine. “We have people coming in two or three times a day at the exact same time without fail. Most of our visitors during the daytime are office goers, and for them it is a ritual. Another thing that is important to customers is the presentation. Two people on our staff make tea, and while one focuses more on the flavour, the other presents his with a thick layer of foam that looks attractive, and customers often request his tea,” says Minu.
But the culture of tea drinking goes beyond the beverage itself, for a good cup (or glass) of tea is best complimented with a piping hot snack. And these are what Raji and her husband Muthuraj specialise in. Working out of a small roadside wagon at Vyttila, the couple set up shop at three in the afternoon and provide egg bhaji, parippu and ulli vadas , and other assorted snacks with some chutney. Such is demand at their little outlet, which also sells tea, that they keep extras like chutney packed up in advance for people who order their snacks packaged. “Our family has been in this business for generations, and my relatives run similar shops nearby,” says Raji, pointing across the road to a similar wagon.
“We have been doing this for 13 years and the demand has always been steady, allowing us to provide a better life for our children than our parents could provide for us,” she adds.
This detail is not much of a surprise, given that the Malayali’s fondness for tea is well-documented, with many jokes circulating on online forums poking fun at the same, including a hilarious image depicting Neil Armstrong being greeted on the moon by a tea shop owner in a lungi . According to Minu, however, drinking tea is a force of habit. “Even during the rains or on a slow week, the amount of tea we sell is almost always constant. We see people going to restaurants and malls and then stopping by just for the tea. And then there are people who order tea before and after a meal. My own mother drinks large amounts of it every day and of late I have found myself indulging in a few glasses while I am at the shop,” she admits with a laugh.
Puroshotthaman Nair, a retired government employee, finds that a glass of hot tea in the morning while reading his newspaper is the best way to start the day. “It’s something I have been doing for many years and is a particular relief especially in the rainy season, when I like to take my time and savour my cup of tea. And as someone who has travelled a lot by bus, the stopovers for refreshment at bus stations, where outlets serve hot tea, were moments to look forward to”
Right from the roadside wagon to the office goers’ hangout, the regular milk tea and the occasional black tea reign supreme. And even at the Kochi Marriott, where diners can choose from a variety of drinks of their choice, tea still holds its own.
“We’ve noticed that tea is preferred by most of our customers, of which 80 per cent ask for regular tea. A few well-travelled people who take an interest in the drink order infusions such as chamomile and peppermint. There are also a few who order premium white teas, so even rarer forms of tea have takers in the city,” says Vivin Kuriakose, director of operations at Kochi Marriott Hotel. “While travellers from North India and Arab customers prefer strong black tea with their breakfasts, local diners prefer our thattukada chaya , which captures the local flavour without compromising on hygiene.
Right from the sizzle of hot milk by the roadside to the plush environs of upmarket restaurants, the joy of a cup of tea is part of the experience of being a Keralite. And even as these words are typed out, the sun shines through the light grey cover that has blanketed the city, and the clock crosses four.
Time for a cup of tea.
