Destination OMR

Serving up everything from stylish sushi to Burmese atho, the once staid Old Mahabalipuram Road is rapidly being reinvented as a food destination. SUSANNA MYRTLE LAZARUS drives there to try a degree coffee, and more

May 13, 2016 04:49 pm | Updated 04:49 pm IST

Chennai,08-05-2016: METROPLUS-MELANGE : Food Street in Thoraipakkam, OMR Photo: Shaju John

Chennai,08-05-2016: METROPLUS-MELANGE : Food Street in Thoraipakkam, OMR Photo: Shaju John

It’s been a while since the IT expressway shed its image of being a space only for tall glass-fronted offices with sprawling compounds. Now, it’s one of the ‘it’ places to live in; from Thoraipakkam to Sholinganallur and Navalur to Siruseri; plush villas and apartments have sprung up over the past five years. And it’s not just the young men and women, who come to Chennai to work, that live in these places. Local families are making a conscious move to this stretch, in an effort to stay away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

But no matter where you stay, once in a while, you still need to get out of home for the evening. Or pick up lunch when you haven’t had time to cook, or simply indulge your sweet tooth even if you’re not a baker and want something more than just a chocolate. That’s where Old Mahabalipuram Road delivers, and how. Arabian, Chinese, North Indian, South Indian, Bengali, Thai, Japanese, Andhra, Continental, Italian, Malaysian, Mexican, street food, desserts… You name it, and it’s available.

Of course, there are the high-end hotels — The Gateway Hotel, Asiana, Turyaa, Novotel, Ibis and Aloft to name a few — with family-friendly buffets and quiet bars. And while the big brands like KFC, McDonald’s, Moti Mahal Delux, Kumarakom, Amaravathi, French Loaf, Subway, Faasos, Murugan Idli Shop and Saravana Bhavan are always popular, smaller establishments are also making their presence felt in the everyday life of residents in the area.

Take for instance, the ever-popular biryani. For the jeeraga samba lovers, there’s Dindigul Thalappakatti and Junior Kuppanna and for those who prefer it with basmati (the way it’s meant to be) there are plenty of options, from smaller eateries to Aasife and Brothers. For Preethi C., however, the first choice is always Ghuma Ghumalu Mess, behind Ganga Sweets, near Navalur toll booth. “They have many varieties of Andhra biryani; it’s quite spicy. The ambience isn’t great, but they do have home delivery and take-away options,” she says. A personal favourite is the Rambo chicken biryani — I suppose that’s because the flavour really gives you a gut-punch, in the best way possible. The biryani is served as khushka, with the gravy and meat on the side.

If you’re in the mood for some outdoor dining on a balmy summer evening, Inzy’s Garden Restaurant in Vaniyanchavadi is a good option. While reviews are mixed on the food, the ambience is quite soothing. Gem Inn Restaurant (Navalur) also has outdoor seating and serves some great non-vegetarian dishes. The Farm in Sholinganallur is popular; it is still a novel concept for city-bred folk to dine alongside clucking chickens and a lazily purring cat soaking in the sunshine. They make their own ghee, jams, pickles, breads and cheeses, including a signature Tomme de Semmancheri. These are also available for sale, so you can take back a taste of farm-fresh goodness.

The north Indian diaspora in OMR is quite large, and to accommodate the demand for authentic cuisine from the region, there are a number of food outlets. Rasavid is popular for late night delivery service (up to 5 a.m.) and an extensive buffet that’s good for large groups. Satpura in Thuraipakkam serves a variety of vegetarian parathas stuffed with carrot, capsicum, dhaniya, baby corn, channachur or chocolate. Long time resident Jayanthi Ragotham recommends I Fake, which specialises in mock meat made primarily of soya. “Their North Indian dishes are delicious,” she says.

The Old Madras Cafe has a charming outdoor seating area, although the traffic is the only view it offers. The interior, with bright yellow walls and wooden pillars, is a cheery place to dig into tasty South Indian fare. They serve “home-style vegetarian food on a banana leaf” at nominal prices: the most expensive item on the menu is the jumbo dosai at Rs. 80. Apart from the usual idli-vadai-pongal-poori, they also serve Kerala appam with veg stew or coconut milk and a Bangalore special thattu idli with podi and ghee.

The latest entrant is OMR Food Street at Thoraipakkam. A food mall of sorts, diners can drive in, park their car on either side and indulge in everything from chaat to a full meal. Head there on any weekend and you’ll see just how popular the place is with the residents of the area. There is a line of cars on either side of the plaza, including a stately Mercedes-Benz. Youngsters don’t think twice about stopping bang in the middle to click a selfie, undeterred by frantic honking. There’s a buzz at every counter, music blares over IPL commentary, a shawarma grill sizzles and flames shoot up, evoking a yell from a young child nearby.

Apart from Ajnabi and Milky Way, the other restaurants are exclusive to OMR. While Stuf-fed serves a variety of vegetarian stuffed parathas, Table 9 is your standard multi-cuisine eatery and Limon has an excellent choice of tender kebabs.

For the experimental foodie, there’s Burma Square serving atho and egg masala. The Wrapaholics, as the name suggests, is good for those who want a quick pick-me-up. Kumbakonam Degree Coffee and Oasis Juice Bar, along with stalls for popcorn, soda and ice gola are also present. The space is the brainchild of Ranjith Baba, who is putting together a similar second outlet in Navalur.

Chaat shops are dime a dozen along the stretch, but the general consensus is that there’s only one place to go for pani puri. It has no name; the only marker is that it’s near the entrance to Olympia Opaline, opposite AGS Cinemas. Joshna Naveen, a resident of the apartment complex, says, “They serve the best pani puri; even the dry puri is delicious. It’s a good way to spend the evening, walking down and sharing a plate with friends.” Isn’t that what good food is all about?

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