Fancy gorging on steaming hot Dabelis from a roadside dhaba on a wet misty day at Lonawala? Or maybe some sizzling appams with spicy Varutharacha Kozhi curry from a modest eatery in a hilly hamlet in Kerala? Heavenly prospects, indeed!
You don’t need to travel all the way from the city to the hill stations to enjoy all of it. Just drop in at the ongoing ‘Hill View Food Festival’ at Cafe Jade in Hotel Hycinth and have your fill of food from the hills.
It’s not just the dishes. The décor and a live counter near the restaurant’s tropical garden, in the backdrop of the rain, takes you instantly to the misty heights of the Ghats.
Says master chef Sunil Kumar Gopalan: “This is that time of the year when summer gives way to monsoon. People who are fed up with the summer crave for the chill of the hill stations. Tourists flock to these places to enjoy the incoming rain. Food plays a significant part in this. Savouring street delicacies in the cool climate is a truly nostalgic experience,” says Sunil.
The main course changes every day of the 10-day fete. But there are certain constants such as Kombadi Biriyani and Dabeli. ‘Kombadi’ in Marathi means chicken. At first sight, it looks as fiery as everything else on the list. However, chef Sunil assures me: “It is not at all that spicy. The crimson shade comes from the fact that chicken is marinated with chilli powder. It is a light dish, suitable for all.”
The biriyani tastes totally different from what we’re used to here in the city, perhaps owing to the special masala that has ginger-garlic paste and cardamom.
Bengali fish speciality Macher Tikka Jhol is completely different. The tanginess of tamarind and the piquant flavour of mustard oil make it a perfect fit for rice. Hariyali Murg Tikka from the Punjabi kitchen is another highlight. Chicken pieces are coated in a green paste of leafy vegetables and roasted to create an exotic taste that goes well with roti and even appam.
Tamil Nadu’s culinary heritage is also on display with lemon rice and Vazhakai Kurumulagu roast.
Chinese-influenced dishes from the North and the North-East such as Manchurian, Momos and Chow mein are a great choice for veggies.
The Maharashtrian staple Misal is also on the list. “The combination of Misal with Pav is out of this world. It’s an absolute treat,” says Sunil.
The cuisines of the misty heights can never be complete without the ubiquitous thattudosa of Kerala. The live counter dishes up piping hot dosas with the customary coconut chutney and omelettes.
Despite the heavy-weight main course, the hands down winner is Gujarati-Maharashtrian street food Dabeli. It looks like a pav sandwich made of dry fruits, onions, potatoes and ground nuts.
“But the precise recipe will consume two full pages of an A4 sheet. It’s tangy, spicy and sweet. It’s an incredible combo. It has been the crowd favourite since the opening day of the fete,” says Sunil. It has its origin in the Kutch region. The term ‘Dabeli’ means ‘pressed’. It suggests the manner of preparation –fill the pav, roast it on the pan and then press it.
Desserts too are aplenty. Freshly made Jalebis and Saffroni (Kesar) Doodh head the section with a whole lot of other sweets, ranging from Angoori Rasmalai and Jamuns to cakes and puddings.
There is every chance that you’ll miss something or the other. But no matter what, don’t miss those Dabelis.
The buffet starts at 7 p.m. everyday. During the weekend there is a live concert by Nandu Leo.
The fete concludes on May 24. Contact: 2552999.
