One common question for a food writer is about his cuisine preferences. I encounter such questions on a daily basis and now people are pretty much aware that I just like eating good food. But if you still ask me, it has to be Mughlai followed by Chinese like most Delhi-ites. So the announcement by Dusit Devarana New Delhi to launch a specialised Chinese restaurant under the name of Chi Ni sounded like music to my ears.Dusit Devarana is known for the amazing ambience it offers. Newly launched 140 cover restaurant Chi Ni is in harmony with the ambience of the rest of luxury resort. It is set up beautifully under a tent canopy with two private dining rooms and even an al fresco area. The menu is interesting with dishes handpicked by Chef Lauah Ban who comes with over 20 years of experience and is passionate about his food. Watching him play with ingredients in the beautifully designed open kitchen is a delight. Chef Ban wants everything to be perfect and hates when his Indian counterparts interfere in his work though Chef Nishant Choubey is a helping hand and makes his life easier.
I started with the soft shell crab with buttermilk goujons and it worked. Light as air, the crabs had perfect crunch and subtle flavours which just lingered on the palate. I love the use of fungus in Chinese cuisine and found poached fungus on the menu and ordered it immediately. Made in Jiang style which refers to Uyghur cuisine, the dish had a Muslim influence which was evident. The use of ginger and coriander gave freshness to the white fungus. For me the litmus test of any Chinese restaurant is their Peking duck and Chi Ni passed it with ease. The duck had a wonderful glaze and perfect tenderness which encouraged me to have it without the pancake and enjoy the meat.
One dish apart from the mouth watering dessert section, which I would recommend, is Chef Ban’s signature baked Chilean sea bass . It was a simple preparation justifying the philosophy of the restaurant of cooking Chinese cuisine from heart. It was one of the best sea bass preparations I have had in recent times. I didn’t want to taste anything after that but their desserts specifically splendid yoghurt and senses of chocolate were worth committing the sin.
Meal for two – Rs. 7000 plus taxes
