Out of the box thinking is the mantra for catching public eye and ensuring their sustained interest and this holds true for the highly competitive food segment where not only what is served but how it is served makes the difference between success and failure. Adhering to this dictum Varun Puri and Vivek Bhargava have recently opened Imly, a bistro housed in a 250 feet long toy train specialising in vegetarian street food, serving non-alcoholic drinks only. The train concept emanated from the dimension of the space discloses Vivek.
The long dining area has natural light and outside view through the wide glass panes – typical of trains – gives you the feel of sitting in a railcar. The luggage racks on the walls add to the atmosphere. Showcasing a wide variety of street food, Imly is brimming with tangy choices. Vivek explains, “Tamarind is a common denominator in the side dishes served with street food, hence the name.”
Within minutes of settling down a staff bearing a miniature giant wheel and typical banta bottle appears. The wheel has dahi phuchka chaat, a complimentary appetiser and the drink is mango sikanji, both timely, as I had stepped in after braving bright sunshine in Delhi’s unusually hot October.
With the menu showing more than 250 street food dishes categorised as per the region, including desserts and combos, one is confused. Head Chef, Harish Joshi comes to my rescue suggesting to start with special genie dosa. The small neatly wrapped pieces stuffed with vegetables and cut tomatoes and capsicum is easy to eat as compared to regular dosas.
Like dahi phuchka chaat, the presentation is quirky and funky as the dosas and chutneys are served in cutlery whose texture and colour resembles a banana leaf –– an ethnic touch. “The plates, bottles and glasses are all custom-made to give the patron the feel and ambience of the place from where the dish originates,” explains Varun. As I try the chutneys, Varun recommends the adhrak-garlic one.
He added it after tasting it in Mumbai’s ITC Grand Central and flew down Harish to learn it from the chef there. The dish and its presentation both are excellent. “We finalised the menu after tasting the special street food in different parts of the country,” informs Varun.
The Mumbai specialities –– pav bhaji, vada pav, missal pav, masala pav and sev puri are laid out with the last one arriving in a wagon –– remember we are in a train. The dishes are delightful and appropriately spiced to suit all taste buds.
The breads are procured from Mumbai. “The Delhi pav is bulky and tastes different from the Mumbai one,” confides Vivek.
A small barrel with tamarind water, shot glasses and round and big golgappas appear on the adjoining table – an interesting way to serve this ubiquitous street side delicacy. Observing my interest our table too receives the same. The water has a tangy taste quite similar to one served by the neighbourhood vendor.
As a true Delhiite one could not ignore the city’s specialities. So papdi chaat, ram ladoo and samosa chaat are served. All are medium-spiced and leave a nice and distinct taste. Done with spice, I move to my favourite moong dal ka halwa –– a delicacy suitable for any time of the day or year.
Address: F-20, HOG Market, Rajendra Place
Timings: noon to midnight
