You cannot walk in casually into this place and not feel intimidated. Everything from the décor to the cutlery oozes royalty. It is difficult to decide whether to admire the marble floor with mirror finish or the silver-framed mirrors or photographs that adorn the walls. The restaurant, based on a modern monochromatic theme is inspired by the legendary style of the Nizams of Hyderabad, who were known for their exquisite taste in sensory objects and their ability to own them all, from jewels to objet d' art to the cuisine. And designer Tarun Tahiliani has given the theme a co-ordinated designer touch to the restaurant.
As you sip water from the solid silver goblet you cannot help but admire the interiors designed in shades of cream to mother-of-pearl. The restaurant at times looks like an opulent setting in a period movie. Against the backdrop of the dark ceiling with crystal block lights to mother-of-pearls inlaid floors in clusters of floral sprays and from a dazzling Osler centrepiece, which casts a dull glow on the guests, the focus is on detailing. The private dining area has been cordoned off by solid silver on teak trellis patterns.
The ceiling has an aged and antique finish to it. It is studded with Swarovski lights to set the mood for an exotic experience.
What probably makes Aish a hit with food lovers is that the food isn't ‘designer stuff'; it's truly Hyderabadi. For coolers they have the likes of nimbu-gud or santra-pudina juice or even a doodh ka sherbet. The starters rock with a combination of a few fusion and authentic Nizami dishes.
Here's a shocker, this restaurant has more than a few tempting exotic vegetarian dishes. The khajur-paneer dhol is one of them. And there is a hari gobi ki tikki too.
The servings come in mini handis and lagaans and no marks for guessing what they are made of. The Murg Muttabbak is the most interesting of starters. It is a layered chicken, egg and meat pie. This dish is not international and was very much a part of the Nizam's must-have.
The flavour of the vegetarian dishes is such that it can divert one's concentration from the meat on the table. The bhaji ki katli is one such dal, it is a dal made with a combination of tangy leafy vegetables along with spinach and finished with a jeera and onion tadka. You cannot ignore this one. Nor can you look the other way from the colourful dum ki bhindi.
The biryani is tempting and is adequately spiced and non greasy. You are also saved from the torture of separating the whole spices from the biryani. Here it has to be the gosht ki biryani. For the vegetarian brigade there is Kothmiri Annam, which can be had with any main course curries.
Dessert could be anything from double ka meetha to semiyaan if you want to stick to the usual fare, otherwise there's ghee-rich badam ka halwa and the maple, walnut and ricotta kulfi too. And in true local flavours Aish also has munakkaya mamsam (mutton cooked with drumsticks).
Where: Aish at The Park, Raj Bhavan Road
When: Lunch and dinner
What: The refreshment drinks and the Nizami cuisine
Table for two: Rs. 2500 approx (minus taxes)
