Food spot Metroplus

Collated from clubs

A fare offered by Marut Sikka

A fare offered by Marut Sikka   | Photo Credit: 09dmc rahul2

Marut Sikka’s new restaurant offers club food from across the country but without any trappings that we associate with it

Whenever I am in Kolkata, I am struck by what is called the “club culture” of the city. A lot of what goes on in one’s life (in some exalted circles, of course) is dependent on the clubs that one is affiliated to. I am pretty amused by the club rivalry that I see in the city, which is not really such a factor in the other cities, though they have their clubs, too. But what interests me is the food that the clubs offer. In Kolkata, for instance, I’ve had some of the best steaks at the Tolly Club when I stayed there during a visit some years ago.

If you like the club food in some cities, but do not travel much, or don’t have access to the clubs, what do you do? Entrepreneur-chef Marut Sikka seems to have found the answer to that – he has set up a restaurant which serves various kinds of dishes made popular in clubs across the country.

The restaurant, in the Sangam complex in R.K. Puram, is fairly new. It’s nicely done up, with comfortable chairs and quite a cheerful ambience. The menu includes many interesting dishes culled from different clubs in different parts of the country. For instance, it includes beetroot chops from Tollygunj Club, fish finger Orly (Bengal Club), tomato and red pepper soup (CCFC, Kolkata) and rawa cutlet (Madras Club).

The afternoon menu is different from the evening fare. We didn’t know that, and were disappointed when we heard that we couldn’t have the golgappas and the tiny idlis with chutneys that are much in demand at lunch. There was no chicken popcorn either. So we asked for a plate of masala peanuts (Trivandrum Club), yam galouti kababs (Oudh Club) and a cheese souffle, for one of us was a vegetarian. For the main course, we asked for a bowl of vegetarian khao suey, mutton pepper fry with parottas, dak bungalow chicken roast with pepper sauce and a railway mutton curry with saffron rice.

The cheese souffle and the yam galouti kababs were excellent. The souffle was fluffy and light, and the yam, surprisingly tasty. I am quite a peanut masala addict – and I must say that the Press Club in Delhi does it rather well. This was all right, too (you really can’t go wrong with peanut masala). The friend who had the khao suey – a Burmese soupy meal with various kinds of add-ons, such as burnt garlic and coriander leaves —was happy with it. My pepper fry mutton was not bad, and I enjoyed the railway mutton curry leftover that we carried home with us the next day. The gravy was thick, and the mutton well roasted.

We ended our meal with a trifle pudding, which is something that I like. My sister-in-law, being an army wife, has been preparing this dessert for years, and it has always been a particular favourite of mine.

I am told that Chef Marut spent months collecting recipes and dishes from the various clubs. He has done a great job of it, and it’s nice to find a host of special dishes under one roof. I am going to go back there for another round. I would, for instance, like to try out the tandoori king fish tikka of the Roshanara Club, a west Delhi outfit which was once widely known for its food and food-lovers. I like the idea of getting club food – without the trappings of a club.

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Printable version | Apr 5, 2020 6:54:13 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/Collated-from-clubs/article13988566.ece

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