Oopali Operajita, an Odissi dancer and a Distinguished Fellow at Carnegie Mellon, was in the city for a talk on Benarasi saris. Called Hiranyavarna – the science and the art of the Benarasi saree, it was held at Brass Tacks, Indiranagar, last week. The show was hosted by The Registry of Sarees.
The talk included around 20 women of all ages, draped in various handlooms, and of course, Benarasis too. “Even if one person buys a Benarasi and then passes it on to the next generation, you have created an interest and a market,” started Oopali. Amidst all the talks and discussions and power point presentations on all about the Benarasi saris, a young lady draped in the Benarasi states: “We are a group of women in our 20s who have decided to wear saris. We don’t need an occasion to wear a Benarasi. You are the occasion, so why not celebrate yourself by draping on a beautiful garment?”
Between applause there were talks on how a six-yard duppatta was draped by the nawabs in India in varied styles. And Oopali adds, “The tradition of making Benarasi will die a fast death if people will not come together. As a child I remember weavers coming home to create drapes that were nothing short of divine. But they themselves would be wearing rags. That image has stuck on in my mind and troubled me for years. We have to join hands to change this.”
Then there were tips on how to care for Benarasi and silk saris. Oopali’s suggestion was, “You don’t need to iron your Benarsi saris. Keep them in a muslin cloth and change the folds every once in a way and air them out. This also applies to other zari saris too.”
Being an Odissi dancer, her passion for the weaves was triggered off by her mother and aunts. “As a young girl I would watch these beautiful women drape themselves in these gorgeous drapes and that’s how my love for this began.”
Though she is from Orissa, Oopali says she is on a mission to promote Benarasi saris as they are one of the most “neglected segments here. Benaras is also my favourite city for I have a danced a lot there. And, you can’t go wrong with the Benarasi. You need to drape it on once and I promise you will be hooked on to it for life.”
She is troubled by the fact that women keep silks and Benrasis only for a special occasion and don’t wear them often as “we let the society dictate what we wear. Why do you let others define your sense of beauty? Wear it if you want to. Don’t be defined by the West. You want to wear silk during the day, go ahead and wear it. Be confident and you will generate interest in those around you with your passion.”
Where does her passion for this leave her dance?
“Dance was never my profession but a passion. I learnt from Kelucharan Mohapatra and always loved dancing, but, the dance world has an under belly that is so vicious. Most dancers have no knowledge of music, language or the dance but just learn it for the sake of being on stage. I am glad that my parents encouraged me to study and I am grateful for that as today I can do more this way. You see as dance is also time bound. Soon you will find yourself competing with dancers young enough to be your daughters. But here I am still into my passion, reviving Benarasi.”
Oopali can be contacted on operajita@gmail.com
