Capture the magic of Mysore

October’s here and Karnataka’s nada habba is fast approaching. The Mysore Dussehra has always been a cheerful time with processions and entertainment.

October 15, 2015 04:22 pm | Updated 08:25 pm IST

What a ride!: Jambu savari at the Mysore Dussehra. Photo: M. A. Sriram

What a ride!: Jambu savari at the Mysore Dussehra. Photo: M. A. Sriram

The air is thick with festive fervour. Children stand in front of mirrors, pretending to be kings, riding elephants. Decorations and lights are brought out and the gaiety is infectious. Everything else is forgotten in the excitement of celebrating a tradition — one that has made its way from the royal palace, to embrace the young and the old, the commoner and the upper-class, alike. A radiantly lit century-old palace, music bands, dance groups, caparisoned elephants and horses, a procession with the idol of a majestic goddess worshipped by royalty, are a part of the merriment. Yes, it is time for the much-celebrated, vibrant Mysore Dussehra.

The festival celebrates the victory of good over evil. There are several legends that shroud the festival — ranging from being a thanksgiving to Indra, the lord of the devas , for timely rainfall , to celebrating it as the day Goddess Chamundeeswari, or Durga, killed Mahishasura, a demon, on Vijayadashami. Gradually, with the passage of time, the festival transformed from a private affair of the rulers of Mysore to a secular celebration of the masses.

Historically speaking

According to historians, Mysore Dussehra became a nada habba (a state festival), in the 14th century, during the reign of the Vijayanagar rulers. Later, after their fall, the Wodeyars of Mysore turned it into a spectacle of unparalleled grandeur. In 1610, at Srirangapatna, Raja Wodeyar I, reintroduced the Vijayanagar tradition of celebrating Navaratri, ensuring that the nine days were an amalgamation of piety and festivity. It was during the rule of Krishnaraja Wodeyar III in 1805, that the king started the tradition of holding a special durbar in the Mysore Palace during Dussehra, which was attended by members of the royal family, officials and the people.

If you walk into the Mysore Palace’s Kalyana Mantapa or wedding hall, you will get a glimpse of 26 murals that take you down memory lane of early Dussehra celebrations. The murals not only depict the celebrations but also show how they have changed, over the years.

Today, more than four centuries after the festival was popularised, it retains its traditional flavour, and offers something for everyone. While youngsters can jive to the beats of modern music at the Manoranjan or entertainment Dussehra, yet others, with the zeal to compete, can participate in arts and drama competitions at the Yuva or youth Dussehra. Those interested in digging into the state’s rich heritage could take a tonga ride or walk into the Mysore Palace and lose themselves in the fascinating portals of the city’s historical past. Connoisseurs of art and culture can revel in the magnificence of classical music and dance.

Ceremonies

On the first day of Dussehra, the king takes a ceremonial bath, worships the family deity in the palace and enters the durbar where he worships the navagrahas (nine planets). He then ascends the throne after which the royal sword and insignia are presented to him. Conches and trumpets are blown to announce that the parade has started.

The royal elephant showers petals on the guests while the royal horse kneels to salute the throne. Once the assembly departs, the king leaves the durbar after praying to the goddess and dines with guests.

All nine evenings of Navaratri are marked with these ceremonies and are followed by acrobatic feats, wrestling, fireworks and more. On the seventh day, the king venerates goddess Saraswati and Mahishasuramardhini, on the eight, On Mahanavami, or the ninth day, the royal sword is worshipped. The Vijayadasami celebrations include the Jambu savari or elephant procession. On this day, the idol of Chamundeshwari is placed on a golden mantapa , on an elephant, and is worshipped by the royal couple and guests, and is taken around the city.

Words fail those who have been a part of the celebrations, while the uninitiated can but conjure up images of majestic splendour, fun and fanfare. Imagination can give you only a whiff of what is to come. Experience the real deal this year, between October 13 and October 23.

0 / 0
Sign in to unlock member-only benefits!
  • Access 10 free stories every month
  • Save stories to read later
  • Access to comment on every story
  • Sign-up/manage your newsletter subscriptions with a single click
  • Get notified by email for early access to discounts & offers on our products
Sign in

Comments

Comments have to be in English, and in full sentences. They cannot be abusive or personal. Please abide by our community guidelines for posting your comments.

We have migrated to a new commenting platform. If you are already a registered user of The Hindu and logged in, you may continue to engage with our articles. If you do not have an account please register and login to post comments. Users can access their older comments by logging into their accounts on Vuukle.