It may be a cliché, but all roads indeed lead to Kumbakonam, where the Mahamagham festival is on. The 10-day event will culminate on February 22 when the deities of all the temples will be brought to the Mahamagham tank for a ceremonial bath. Devotees consider it a blessing to be present and have a dip alongside.
The timing of the festival depends on a special celestial alignment, which happens only once in 12 years. Hence expectations run high among the people. While for the young, the experience is novel, for the aged it is a poignant moment. “Who knows what will happen in the next 12 years? We just can’t miss it,” is their reaction.
It is touching to see the old and the infirm, some even on crutches, slowly wend their way to the tanks, which have been spruced up and filled with clean water. For the devout, however, the colour or quality of the water does not matter. The aim is to make a quick dip. Some are satisfied with sprinkling.
Dotted with numerous temples in and around, Kumbakonam is the hub for any pilgrimage. Urban development is yet to make inroads into this ancient town that has managed to retain its flavour as the icon of South Indian tradition, be it the Veda Patasala or the degree coffee and of course the aromatic betel leaf-tobacco combo.
“This is the sixth Mahamagham I’m witnessing and yes, this year it seems to have attained that extra sheen, may be because of the spotlight thrown by the media,” laughs Balasubramaniam, Kumbakonam resident and banker. “The reach therefore, is immense,” he adds. People settled abroad are visiting, many bringing friends from those countries. “They marvel at our culture as they are introduced to the different aspects of this festival,” he points out.
About five lakh people have bathed in the tanks since Saturday when the flag went up in the temples. Cars and buses are ceaselessly dropping pilgrims, who head for the temples and tanks.
“Allowing pilgrims to bathe on all the ten days as it is done at Kumba Melas has helped,” Mr. Balasubramaniam observes. “Otherwise it would lead to a stampede. Now it is floating population and facilitated free movement of pilgrims,” he says. Hotels and cottages have no vacancy and South Indian hospitality is at its best with local families having up to 25 guests staying with them.
“Both the Acharyas of the Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam have camped here to spearhead the event. The streets are reverberating with Vedic chants. The All-India Thuraviyar Mahanadu, conducted in Govindapuram, is another highlight of the festival,” he informs.
Auditor Suryanaryanan’s association with the grand festival began way back in 1956, when he was eight. His grandfather and father were involved in the activities and the boy was drawn towards it. His grandfather founded Sarada Vilasa Press that printed Vedic books with swaras. Father Ganapati Sastrigal continued the legacy. Mahaperiyava had camped in the town for Mahamagham and his eyes fell on a poor worker at the press. “Arrange to distribute food for all those pilgrims, who come here for the festival,” he told the man.
Taken aback, he approached Ganapati Sastrigal for guidance. One thing led to another, sponsors including the late R. Venkatraman, joined and what seemed an impossible task was accomplished. “It was Periyava’s grace and as a child I watched the chain of events and the seed was sown,” elaborates Suryanaryanan. Food distribution has become his forte. “In 2004, our group arranged anna danam for a lakh of pilgrims. This year the target is five lakhs, for five days, from February 18-23.”
Suryanarayanan has a word of praise for the Government and the municipal machinery for getting the town ready for the big occasion. “The town looks beautiful with the staff clearing garbage and cleaning public places constantly. Main spots such as the Town Hall, clock tower and Padithurai have been lit up. Bathing at the ghats has never been easier. It is a five km circuit the bathers follow – the Mahamagham tank-Potramarai tank-Chakkara Padithurai. The movement is smooth and comfortable,” he says.
“Everyday has been a festival for the past few weeks,” says an upbeat Venkatasubban, auditor, for whom this is the fourth Mahamagham. Does he find any change in the ambience over the years? “Awareness has increased and with it the number of pilgrims,” he says. “The atmosphere has been highly spiritual with discourses and lectures happening at temples and public places. For instance, Sri Krishna Premi is conducting Radha sameda Krishna Sammelan,” he adds.
“We, the residents of Kumbakonam, are especially happy to see water flowing in the Cauvery. Sri Periyava has arranged an aarati at the Padithurai a la Ganga Aarati,” he says.
‘Kumbakonathil Ula,’ Valayapettai Krishnan’s book released in time to catch the readers, gives a panoramic view of the town capturing its rich heritage and uniqueness. A native of the place, the Tiruppugazh scholar is soaking in the Maamaangam mood. “I won’t miss this for anything. The ambience is charged with fervour as lakhs of pilgrims are having bath in the sacred tanks. The festival seems to have a special aura this year,” he says.
