Stones speak

The sites and stones of British India are spread across Delhi. More than 60 years after Independence, Delhiites regard the reign as a little signpost of the past.

August 27, 2014 07:10 pm | Updated 07:10 pm IST

The canopy at India Gate. Photo: Shiv Kumar Pushpakar

The canopy at India Gate. Photo: Shiv Kumar Pushpakar

History lies in quiet repose some 1300 times over — that is the number of monuments said to be of national importance in the Capital. The British rule caused much angst to Indians but more than 60 years after Independence, Delhiites regard the reign as a little signpost from the past. Be it the site commemorating the Royal Durbar of 1911 when King George announced the shifting of the capital from Calcutta to Delhi — the place came to be called Kingsway Camp in later years — or New Delhi set up by Edwin Lutyens with more than a dissenting opinion from Herbert Baker, Delhi seems comfortable with its imperial past.

As the Capital, Delhi did not have the best of beginnings. Lord Hardinge, who was to inaugurate the new city in December, 1912, came riding an elephant when a bomb was hurled at him; the umbrella bearer was killed, Lord Hardinge escaped with serious injuries. His enthusiasm waned soon as did that of Lutyens-Baker who fell out over the niceties of the Viceregal Palace. These though proved minor irritants as the city kept its date with destiny: In came India Gate as a modern-day war memorial bearing the names of some 70,000 Indians who sacrificed their lives in the First World War. In 1971 was added the Flame of the Immortal Soldier or Amar Jawan Jyoti. Nearby, we have had a 73-foot cupola, inspired by a sixth-century pavilion from Mahabalipuram, under which was a fifty-foot tall statue of King George V. The statue was later removed to Coronation Park, in which we can find many other statue of the imperial regime.

Every brick in the Capital seems to have history written over it. Hey, but not every stone is say staid and profound. For proof, just go across to Ludlow Castle, for long a successful school. But back in the pre-Independence era, it was the place where the wedding party of Jawaharlal Nehru stayed as part of the festivities! Stones do speak. Some of them smile too.

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