More dancers record their affection and admiration for D.S. Aiyyalu, costume-designer. Evicted from his shop that he occupied for 40 years, DSA is in search of a business place. The first part of the article appeared on July 22.
“He was the costume maker for me ever since my arangetram in 1964,” says Anita Ratnam . Sister Preetha is a client too. “A pioneer, none understood the requirements of a dancer as well as he did. His creations are the best - be it blouse, pyjama, skirt type. After my marriage, I went to Aiyyalu with my mother to have my nine-yard sari converted into costume. DSA will have none of it. ‘No way. I won't touch it,' he said. Such was the respect he had for tradition. “In 1993, when my first group presentation ‘Panchajanyam' was scheduled at Sri Krishna Gana Sabha with 18 dancers, the parents of the dancers formed “a relay” from DSA's shop to the Sabha and got it by 6.30 p.m. minutes before the programme started. “I did a big production, ‘Kannagi' in Singapore and DSA did all the stitching. I subsequently went into dance-theatre and that ushered in fashion designers. I will always remember DSA for his earnestness, commitment to work and creativity. He deserves Padma Bhushan or at least Kalaimamani. But who will campaign for him?”
“My association with DSA is from 1966,” says Sudharani Raghupathi . “I couldn't afford to pay him the full amount those days but he never worried.He carried on with his work sincerely. His cutting is unique. Both of us have done a lot of research work on presentation that would enhance the dancer's appearance. We were the first to honour DSA at the Music Academy Hall when Vazhuvur Ramaiah Pillai and Pakkirisamy Pillai were on stage. At first, he refused to come but a car was sent and he was coaxed to come. I would call DSA ‘Aadai Arasar.'”
Priya Murle, Sudharanai's disciple, recalls that two of her dress materials were among those washed away by flood water that entered DSA's shop in the 1980s. Aiyyalu replaced them with exact replicas. “DSA is a man of creative ideas. It is artistry at its best,” she says.
“He makes you feel at home with his pleasant smile and soft tone,” says Jayanthi Subramaniam, whose daughter Sumitra also gets her costumes done by him. “I have never seen him note down our ideas, on most occasions confused, but he would turn up with fine results, taking our suggestions into account. I'd call him ‘Bheeshmachariar of Dance Tailoring,'” says Jayanthi.
DSA has been the costume designer for Priyadarsini Govind for the past 35 years. “He is a legend. I give him the same respect that I give my Guru. For dancers abroad he makes perfect fits without seeing them; even measurements are not necessary. Give him their age and a rough idea of their build, he takes care of the rest. Such is his genius. I would call him ‘Man For All seasons.' He definitely deserves a Padma award.”
Indira Rajan, octogenarian teacher has known DSA for the past 55 years. Talking about him and his service to dance brings tears to her eyes. “Worth his weight in gold, he has never shown irritation,” says she.
“His cutting is so good even a not-so-slim dancer looks pretty on stage,” says Hemamalini, for whom Aiyyalu has been costume designer ever since her first performance. She is deeply worried that none has inherited his skill. “This November ‘Jayasmrithi' will be honouring him and I would very much like him to come in person to receive the award,” says the veteran dancer-actor.
Jayapriya Vikraman, wife of film director Vikraman, is a Kuchipudi artist and DSA has been her designer for 32 years. “I always call him Krishna, because he keeps producing clothes,” she says. “He has been my Guru's costume maker for more than 50 years. He produced apt outfits for both ‘Chandaalika' and ‘Sangamitra.' “On December 29, 2009, Birju Maharaj, his senior disciple Saaswathi Sen (Radhe) and myself (Krishna) presented a programme in Kuchipudi style at Tirumala. The audience was stunned. DSA had stitched the entire costume. I honour seniors every year on October 15, birthday of my Guru Vempatti Chinnasathyam through my “Nagabharana Art Foundation. This year it will be DSA, who will receive the ‘Krishna Award.' As if in response to Hemamalini's thought she says, “His nephew Sivakumar is sure to carry on DSA's legacy.”
“DSA was my costume artist from 1960s to 1980s till I settled down in Delhi,” says Yamini Krishnamoorthy. “He is not a mechanical tailor but a creative one, who makes costumes to suit the dancer's figure,” she observes. “If my performances won acclaim abroad, DSA had a big role to play.”
“I was a wisp of a girl of 10, when I first sought the services of D.S. Aiyyalu to stitch my dance costume . Ever since, and over decades, he has tailored each and every one of my outfits – combining commitment, imagination, meticulous attention to detail, finesse and superb skill,” says Alarmel Valli. “It would be no exaggeration to say that Aiyyelu has contributed in a big way to the careers of most of the leading Bharatanatyam dancers,” she sums up.
For Sailaja, Aiyyalu stands for perfection, dedication and commitment. She finds his costumes beautiful and comfortable.
“‘Saila Sudha' had the privilege of honouring him in the second national seminar. I am yet to come across a person, who lets his work speak for himself as eloquently as Aiyyalu,” says she.
