Mehrangarh fort, the full moon and folk musicians are the three key players at the Jodhpur RIFF (Rajasthan International Folk Festival). The magnificent structure, where the Rajput clan of Rathores entered historical treaties, now sees innovative artistic alliances being formed. Behind the imposing, red sandstone walls of the fort, perched high on a cliff, the festival has been fecilitating cross-genre experiments. The sprawling courtyard of the zenana turns into a performance arena with the gleaming, white moon watching over the ramparts.
Days before the festival, musicians from across the world converge at Jodhpur, the Blue City that stands at the edge of the Thar. They explore ways to blend new-age global sounds with the earthy tunes of the Manganiyars and Langas.
As you walk into an ornately carved space inside the fort, the strident beats of Australian percussionist-composer Gene Peterson break the stillness of the desert. Renowned beatboxer Tom Thum builds the rhythm further even as Firoz Khan, Kheta Khan, Shakur Khan and team weave in the folk flavour into the experimental composition with their singing and playing of khartaal, bhapang, dholak, morchang and nagara. It’s the rehearsal for ‘Rustle,’ the final act at RIFF 2018 that presented over 350 artistes.
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“RIFF has made us thinking musicians,” says Kheta Khan, sipping tea from a kulhad . “Since music is as basic as food and water to the Managaniyars, we never realised its potential in drawing the world’s attention towards our community. Nor did we think we could share the stage with artistes of international repute till Divya Bhatia, the director of RIFF, gave us the confidence,” adds Khan, who has performed with popular Indian classical musicians at several festivals in India and abroad.
Awe-struck by the energy and genius of these folk musicians, Gene Peterson feels it’s hard to stop talking about the lessons on sound he learnt during the practice sessions. “With their natural sense of melody and rhythm, they can easily fit into any creative setting. Perhaps, it is to do with the participatory nature of Indian folk music that are performed in a group and passed down generations. They just needed a catalyst such as RIFF to reach out to the world.”
The collaborative acts at the festival turn the spotlight on the folk musicians, encouraging them to look deeper into their repertoire, revive traditional compositions and come up with refreshing interpretations.
Cross-genre celebration The Manganiyars with Gene Peterson and Tom Thum. (Below) Members of Mehfil-e-Thar
Master kamaicha artiste Dharra Khan did just that to create a seamless soundscape with Grammy award-winning flautist Wouter Kellerman on Day Three this year at the five-day festival. African and tribal-inspired roots music fused with jazz, classical traditions and Rajasthani folk. And as music travelled beyond borders, the audience experienced its unifying appeal.
‘Hands of Time’ was another gripping performance that brought together Welsh and Indian storytelling and music with Angharad Wynne, singer-songwriter Gwilym Morus-Baird, Hindustani vocalist and sufi singer Smita Bellur, Dharra khan Manganiyar and Sawai Khan Manganiyar. Angharad drew a beautiful imagery with her emotion-soaked and clear narration. Listening to the story of the brewing romance between young Thomas Gruffydd, who joined the Bengal Native Infantry under the East India Company and the gorgeous Heera, a Rabari and a courtesan of Maharaja Man Singh of Marwar and their painful separation (Heera becomes a sati when the Maharaja dies) was like walking on the warm sands into Rajasthan’s royal past.
“Earlier this year, we staged this production at Cardiff’s Festival of Voice and Beyond the Border Wales International Storytelling Festival. It has been wonderful researching the region’s history by talking to archivists at the fort, touring the villages and meeting the Manganiyars to come up with this story. It’s a delightful mesh of music, words and Rajasthani and Welsh traditions,” says Wynne.
“ Hamare gaon mein aisa hota hai. Hum kahani sunakar gaate hain (we sing as we tell stories in our villages). But I never thought it could be transformed into a stage show. The five of us have been working on the concept for the past few months. And see how wonderful it has turned out to be,” smiles Sawai Khan.
Over the past 11 years, Jodhpur RIFF, a not-for-profit partnership project involving two of India’s leading heritage trusts: Mehrangarh Museum Trust and Jaipur Virasat Foundation, has upheld its core purpose of preserving the region's rich musical past through a year-round commitment and support system. Maharaja Gaj Singh II of Marwar-Jodhpur is RIFF’s chief patron, while Sir Mick Jagger, front man of The Rolling Stones, is the international patron. Its team of volunteers, led by Bhatia, travels around villages identifying new talents and conducting training camps and workshops.
“We explain to them the importance of organised training to realise their self-worth. They need to take a cue from the Kanchipuram-based Kattaikoothu Gurukulam, a residential school founded by a third-generation koothu performer, P. Rajagopal, that teaches children both performing arts and academic subjects. Like Rajagopal, these Rajasthani musicians should make efforts to safeguard the future of their art and children,” says Bhatia, stressing on such a module to sustain folk forms.
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RIFF celebrates not just the musical heritage but also the architectural splendour. The concert spaces have been designed to showcase the historical structure.
After the Main Stage concerts at the courtyard of the zenana, in the darkness of the night, with a few avid music lovers, you walk through a muddy, rugged path to listen to Sumitra Devi at the Rao Jodha Park. Her love ballads and euphoric voice bring alive the drama of desert life as the lit-up fort glows in the background. It is 5 a.m., the full moon still shines like a dazzling bright ring even as the rising sun paints the sky in orange and red. The melodious notes of Hidayat Khan’s sitar strings fill the cool air as you climb up the steps to Jaswant Thada for the early morning concert.
At 4 p.m., in the afternoon heat, as you navigate the slopes and inclines to reach the Chokelao Bagh, a lush green restored garden — of 18th century vintage — for a workshop on Meera Bai’s poetry, you rejoice the saint-poet’s verses in Nature’s company. Step out of the Bagh and turn right to find yourself in the chaotic old city of Navchokiya. When you turn for a last look at the Mehrangarh, the timeless Rajasthani folk song ‘Padharo Mhare Des’ echoes in the ears.
Beyond the desert
Through its global partnerships, RIFF has given an international platform to folk musicians, who have performed at Commonwealth Games (Scotland and Australia), Edinburgh International Festival, Womex, Woodford Folk Festival, Sydney Festival, Forde Festival, Cervantino International Festival and many more
