Nestled in the eastern Himalayan foothills bordering Assam and West Bengal are two wildlife reserves — Jaldapara and Buxa. In between is a stretch of forest that is home to the matrilineal Rabha tribe. Limited by restrictions that prevent access to deeper areas of the forest, the members of this tribe have, for the past several years, been facing a livelihood crisis.
Rising magnificently to counter the crisis are the Rabha women, who are expert weavers. Accustomed to weaving their own clothing, they are skilled at crafting the traditional sarong-dupatta-stole ensemble for community festivals, marriages and occasions. Never having woven for the market, they began doing so from 2014, necessitated by economic hardship.
Aided by a craft revival and marketing organisation, the Hast Karigar Society, that conducted a survey in 2013 to assess tribal weaving as a sustainable livelihood option, the Rabha women embarked on a self-help project. The venture kicked off with just four female weavers in the forest village of Rajabhatkhawa. Today, the number has increased to 15.
“There were teething problems associated with the sourcing of thread, connectivity and transporting the fabrics to cities,” reveals Sarmistha, creative head of Hast Karigar. “The situation improved after we conducted four design development workshops and facilitated the weavers’ understanding of market demands. They are now supported by a woman coordinator from their own community. Hard work began reaping rewards with their products being sold from the Prince of Wales Museum, Mumbai, and export orders from the U.S.”
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Working from simple pit looms, Rabha women spin the remarkably soft yet crisp, lightweight cotton lufung (sarong), kumbang (dupatta) and mapla (stole) whose mix-and-match appeal is fast gaining popularity in Delhi and other metros, thanks to their versatility. Saris are the latest addition. While the main colours used are black, red, yellow, green, blue and the occasional white, new hues in the palette include stunning pinks and vibrant oranges. Woven motifs include florals and geometric patterns that reflect forest flora and fauna.
“The mainstay of their families, these women make time for weaving amidst demanding daily chores such as tending to livestock, fishing and harvesting. The boost they need is an increased awareness among craft lovers to trigger an enthusiastic response from buyers for their unique textiles.”
The ‘Traditions & Trends’ exhibition of Rabha handlooms and handicrafts presented by Impressions and Hast Karigar Society is on at the Lalit Kala Akademi, 4, Greams Road, till October 1, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
