It’s been a tough two years. Why? The pandemic, obviously. Being grounded made me grumpy. So when I read that the Easter Islands were opening up and going ahead with their Tapati festival from February 4 to 12, I was overjoyed.
Unlike other festivals, this is a cultural and sporting event. Originating in the ancient spring festivals celebrated in Chile, it has transformed to become a tribute to ancestral traditions of the Rapanui people.
The ultimate reason for this celebration is the election of the queen of the Tapati. Two candidates vie for the title. The competitions are epic, inspired by the ancient cult of the Tangata Manu.
Till 2017, these competitions took place inside the crater of the Rano Raraku volcano. But with no water in the volcano lake, the competitions were shifted to Hanga Roa village.
Tough contests
The kickoff is a triathlon. The first test is Vaka Ama, where participants have to paddle across the lake in small rafts built of totora, a water reed. When they reach the shore they are on to Aka Venga. Here, two banana heads weighing about 20 kg are hung on the necks of participants and they have to run around the lake and then swim across the lake with a float of reed fibres known as pora. Then comes Haka Pei an extreme sport. Adorned with Takona (body paintings) they climb the hill and slide down on a sledge made of two banana trunks.
Bareback riding, canoeing, haka honu (gliding on the waves like a turtle approaching the shore) and haka ngaru (like surfing), stone and wood carving, handicrafts and agriculture are some of the other sports.
Finally, I got to the part that I enjoyed the most. Gastronomy! Laid out was a veritable feast of Tunu Ahi (fish on hot stone), Rapanui cebiche (sponge cake made of banana, sweet potato or pumpkin) and other exotic food.
As daylight faded, the night took on a mythical and festive character with music and dance. Then there was an exhibition of takona. Women, dressed in traditional costumes told stories (Pat ‘uta ‘u) with their fingers creating figures by interlacing a long thread.
On the penultimate day was the grand parade, farandula. Painted and dressed in traditional costumes participants sang and danced their way to their floats on which stood carvings in stone or wood.
The grand finale was the coronation, and the royal couple was welcomed with a fireworks show.
All in all a treat for the eyes and a good break from the humdrum of daily existence.
