“Have you heard the Hindi saying: Dilli abhi door hain?”
“Maybe,” said Taran. “Doesn’t that mean ‘Delhi is still far away’? But I thought we are already in Delhi?”
Taran and his family were navigating the narrow by-lanes of Nizamuddin while trying to keep an eye on the wares being sold: attar, flowers and snacks.
“Haha! Of course we are in Delhi! But where we are going is linked to this saying. It was first said by the saint Khwaja Nizamuddin Aulia, and this dargah is his final resting place,” said Appa.
“Oh!” said Taran, not quite understanding.
“If the goal is very far away or out of reach, people say, ‘Delhi is still far’,” explained Amma.
At the dargah
“I still don’t get it. What’s the connection?” asked Taran. They had reached the dargah, and were taking off their shoes and getting a hanky to tie over their heads. At dargahs and gurudwaras, visitors are expected to cover their heads as a sign of respect.
“Nizamuddin Aulia was a famous Sufi saint who lived on the outskirts of Delhi about 700 years ago. The Sultan then did not trust him and resented the fact that so many people looked up to and listened to him. He thought that was the Sultan’s job,” explained Appa.
“Makes sense,” said Taran, “but, on the other hand, maybe the king was just insecure.”
“He definitely was. So, once when the Sultan was travelling back to Delhi, he decided that he wanted the saint to vacate the city before he reached. He sent the message through the courtier Amir Khusro, who was also the saint’s favourite disciple.”
“What happened next?” asked Taran.
“A worried Amir Khusro conveyed the message but the saint was unperturbed. ‘Hunuz Dilli Dur Ast,’ he said.”
Making a wish
As they walked on the cool marble floor and admired the architecture of the white dome and pillars. Appa continued, “As luck would have it, the sultan was struck by a pole of a temporary podium that night and died. He never made it back to Delhi, and Khwaja Nizamuddin never left Delhi. He was buried right in the city.”
“How strange!” said Taran, tying a thread to a pillar after making a wish. Amma told him that, if his wish came true, he had to come back and untie the knot.
Taran sat down to watch the hustle bustle of a Thursday evening as people settled down for the qawwali (Sufi music and poetry).
“What did you pray for?” asked Amma.
“Help to pass my Hindi exams!” grinned Taran.
“Haha! Dilli bahut door hain,” joked Amma and Appa.
Published - October 14, 2024 10:09 am IST