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Heritage heartland

S.B.
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DECEMBER 2003

HAVING SETTLED on visiting Karaikudi, I am amazed by the number of people who proffer the same advice. Visit "aayiram jannal veedu," they urge. So, as I head for the land of the Chettiars from Madurai, my mind — during the 86-km ride on a highway that alternates maddeningly between potholed and silken smooth stretches — is fixed on the famed 1,000-windowed house.

S.B.

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