Chat Architect-turned-jewellery designer Pavan Anand’s collections are usually based on locations. However, his latest collection, Phantom Chic, deals with dark shades of human nature

Renowned jewellery designer Pavan Anand has been successful in his endeavour to take the aesthetics of Indian jewellery to the West. He has set up representative offices of his Dagmar brand of jewellery, set up in 2004, in various cities in the UK, Canada and America. His jewellery is popular among Hollywood celebrities, Megan Fox and Nicole Kidman are already sporting his latest collection.

Pavan was in Bangalore last month to for an exhibition of his latest 2012 Fall/Winter Collection, Phantom Chic , presented by Samsaara . The collection, which features exotic necklaces and chandelier earrings, comes in alluring colours of black, bronze and silver. The elements used are dark stones such as lapis lazuli, smoky topaz, uncut quartz-like druzi, brown agate, Tahiti pearls and emeralds.

This collection is a departure from Pavan’s earlier collections. “Being well travelled, all my collections have been location inspired. I have designed the Marrakesh Collection , the Nefertiti Collection inspired by Egypt and most recently, the Upper East Collection, inspired by Manhattan,” says Pavan, who was born and raised in Mumbai, and began his career as an architectural consultant and later pursued jewellery designing.

For this collection, Pavan’s inspiration was the mysterious side of human nature. “There is a dark, unexplored side in all of us. In our pursuit of fulfilling different roles, there is an element in each of us that remains unexplored. I wanted to address that part of the individual through this collection. So, the jewellery has a dark feel to it”

Pavan re-creates the jewellery of bygone eras in his creations. “Indian jewellery is opulent and full of colour. In my designs I bring the aesthetics, of say, the Mughal era, or the jewellery of the Raja of Patiala.”

Pavan says his designs appeal “to the global woman, who is a world traveller, a professional, with strong sensibilities, and someone who is confident”.

Pavan showed signs of a passion for jewellery designing when he was a young boy. “When I was eight or nine, I asked my grandfather how many karats the ring he wore on his finger was. He was shocked!” Pavan laughs and recounts.

Although Pavan moved from architecture to jewellery designing, he says that he doesn’t like to box his creativity. “Architecture is not something I have let go of. How come no one asks Armani why he’s building hotels?”

Pavan contends that a decade ago, Indian jewellery was hardly known in the West. But today, the scenario has changed to a great extent. “People have become far more accepting of Indian jewellery. The handcrafted nature of Indian jewellery is appreciated there. My approach is to make ethnic jewellery look glamorous, which matters, considering that jewellery design appeals from the way it is packaged.”

Jewellery, to Pavan, is about personality and not about scale. You could be petite and wear something very big in scale. Jewellery and clothing differ. With clothing, one has to be aware of their body type, but that’s not so with jewellery,” he signs off.