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We didn't start the fire

Sichuan fare at Mainland China is for the strong of stomach with a weakness for spice

BLOW HOT, BLOW COLD Chef Rahul of Mainland China: `The cuisine is all about balance'

Say Sichuan and everyone looks suitably mystified. But call it by its popular name and there is a happy grin of recognition. Sichuan is popularly called Szechwan — got it? You have all those delightful memories of little fried pieces of manchurians in garlic sauce and what have you.

"It is what sells," Chef Rahul of Mainland China, which is hosting a Sichuan food festival, explains. "Traditionally Chinese food does not have any deep-fried stuff. But all our Chinese food has come from China Town in Calcutta. There the Chinese settlers worked out what was popular with us and since we so love our fried stuff — our pakoras and kachoris — the manchurian was born!"

The time has come for a spot of food history. Sichuan cuisine has been in existence from forever — at least from 221 BCE in the time of Qin and Han dynasties. The cuisine became super popular over the last 800 years. Extra spice came in the form of the Chile pepper that came to China from South America in the late 17th Century. The Sichuan pepper, an important ingredient, comes from the ash tree. The thing about the pepper is it numbs the tongue. And just if you are wondering what would be the purpose of numbing the tongue to enjoy a meal, chef Rahul says: "It numbs the tongue to bring out other flavours."

One of the main reasons for all the spice in Sichuan cooking is the damp climate. The hot peppers are to combat internal dampness — sounds quite like the theory of fighting heat with cooling foods in our Indian summers.

Obviously at a food festival there is not time or place to put the recorded 5,000 dishes in Sichuan cuisine. The menu, however, is pretty well represented with the tongue-numbing chilli occupying the pride of place. Starters such as steamed dumplings, corn and okra, a crisp potato with chilli and Sichuan peppers, water chestnut in Hunan style rock big time.

While the biggest things about Sichuan cuisine are the peppers, there are other flavours as well. "The cuisine is all about balance," Chef Rahul says. "The spicy is offset by the sweet and then there would sour and then spicy again."

The spices have been imported for a true taste of China. Tofu and bean curd are popular stars on the cuisine. Those who do not mind eating food that glares back balefully can check out the lobster in sam-me sauce (lobster in a sweet spicy sauce) or the chin chow squids (squid tossed with fresh chilli, ginger, celery, onion and carrot). The jewel in the crown is the subtle imperial Sichuan peppered fish (served in an oyster with almonds, pepper, black mushrooms, chilli and white wine sauce). Go ahead, the world is your oyster, seize it!

The festival is on till August 31 at Mainland China, 14, Church Street. Phone: 25597722, 55374727.

Mini Anthikad-Chhibber

Ambience: Oriental
Service: Good
Speciality: All things containing the Sichuan pepper
Wallet factor: Rs. 600 onwards for two

MINI ANTHIKAD-CHHIBBER

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