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A week of fashion

It was a mixed bag at the Lakme India Fashion Week

THE MARCH OF INDIA: Indigenous crafts and fabrics have essentially attracted international buyers

`It's not a new me, I am catering to a new you.' The remark by Ritu Kumar after her show - devoid of all frills and glitter of the past - sums up the mood at the Lakme India Fashion Week. The old order has finally changed. The Week may not have been able to control the price tags much in the last six years, but it has really helped the old guard shun the couture/trousseau mindset.

The buyers seem pleased. "Kitsch won't sell any more in a big way. The demand is for a subtle look where a sports top has Indian embroidery on the neckline," says Sunil Sethi of Alliance Merchandising, an intermediary for Selfridges. "We know what the senior designers are capable of. We are for fresh talent."

Positive shift

Michael Fink of Saks Fifth Avenue, says, "I have come with an open mind, but already I am seeing a positive shift." Admiring Indian crafts and natural fabrics, Fink points out, "We have been sourcing Indian embroidery for years, but now we want to give Indian designers a chance because we feel they know the usage better."

Does this put the likes of Ritu, who essentially designs Indian silhouettes, out of the reckoning? "Not really. In the U.S. our customers are varied. Some may like India silhouettes." No wonder, the skirt in all its Indian varieties made a statement at LIFW.

Among the Indian buyers, Raymonds' Be, which virtually started the trend of domestic corporate tie-ups has made it clear they want business. "Be has always been the largest buyer at the Week. That we have evolved to 18 stores in 10 cities is a sign of growth," says Paylomi Dhawan of Be.

Waning interest

Vinod Kaul, ex-Executive Director, Fashion Design Council of India, who had been associated with Be, says part of the reason for the waning interest of the corporates in tie-ups is that prêt has not grown the way it should have in India. Meanwhile, the empty stands are staring at organisers' tall claims. Buyers have not been able to fill more than two rows. The experiment to shift stalls from rooms to a makeshift air-conditioned arrangement has taken unduly long to set in. Media and public relations bees are, however, in full supply, outnumbering every other thing on show. .

And in the hoopla there seems to be some spin doctoring at play as well. With most designers showing diffusion and the rest refusing to share price tags, it was reported prêt has nothing to do with price tags, it is just a literal translation of ready-to-wear. Says designer, Suneet Verma , "Pret has everything to do with price. It means ready-to-wear, but it also means - to be sold off the racks `ASAP' (as soon as possible). This is possible only if the prices are low." Rina Dhaka, who has shrugged transparency for content this year, has a point. "Fashion is very clever. It covers every possible opportunity of sales."

ANUJ KUMAR

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