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Ramp-age
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They dress to kill, and charge likewise. ANUJ KUMAR speaks to eminent fashion designers to find out what's in store for 2004.
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REALITY CHECK: Indian designer wear is pegged at 0.9 percent of the total apparel market. Big names are selling their lavish designs - after ripping off the labels - at one tenth the price to Mumbai stores. Yet Vinod Kaul of Fashion Design Council of India, which holds the biggest annual fashion carnival, Lakme India Fashion Week, maintains, "The fashion industry has grown by 30 per cent this year and LIFW alone managed to win orders worth Rs.30 crores."
Figures: Your figure should score a perfect 10 to fit into designer sizes. Still no research has been done to fathom the Indian reality. Rina Dhaka counters, "Fashion, the world over is meant for trim bodies."
Pręt: Platypus like shoes, twigs in the hair and backless attire with Moghul and mythological figures in front. Kaul argues, "Pręt is just two years old in India. We don't interfere in the aesthetics part but have advised the designers to make more wearable clothes."
Style Statement: Male models with sindoor and earrings and females in all white bespectacled look. "It was to add some fun and humour. Otherwise people could not distinguish one designer from the other. People took notice of my work because of this," reasons Rohit Bal. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, whose Kora collection was a cry against war, says, "Fashion is part of the overall reality," adding, "Models were deglamourised so that people could concentrate on my designs."
The Great Divide: While top female models earn Rs.25000 per show, their male counterparts get just Rs.10000. Out of the 55 shows during the Fashion Week, just seven featured male models.
Saving Grace: A young lot with practicality and functionality as the benchmark is mending the ramparts of Indian fashion. However, Rina holds, "Most of them are copying us."
Looking Forward: FDCI has announced two fashion weeks - one in April concentrating on ramp shows and another later in the year emphasising business.
TRENDS - 04
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
USP: Breaking rules for the better
The `50s and `60s feminine look will return. A-line cuts will be in vogue. Churidars matched with long kurtas or short kurtis will remain hot. Bright colours will make way for pastel shades. Hopefully, the functional aspect will return to designs.
Vijaylakshmi Dogra
USP: Playing with antique art and paintings
Fur lined clothes, short jackets, boleros with leather used in patches worn with boots. Broad brimmed hats and bright woollen caps with bits of leather will make an entry. Fuchsia, orange and red will last only till this summer. Lightweight woollen saris, highlighting body shape and adorned with ethnic motifs, will be in demand. Cargos will make a comeback; straight pants will stay.
Puneet Nanda, Satya Paul
USP: Redefining saris
Look out for our `inspirational saris' this January with 45-inch flowers inspired by the works of Rothke, Matisse and Mondrian. Softer fabrics like kantha silk will replace stiff stuff. Practicality is much in demand both in terms of cost and silhouettes, and we will stick to it.
JJ Valaya
USP: Opulence
Lots of style, elegance and drama. Look and feel like an absolute royal. A blend of cotton, lycra and chiffons will be in demand. The pretentious attitude will go out. Style in 2004 will be all about being subtle effortlessly.
Rohit Bal
USP: Plays a different ball game
Don't believe in forecasting. However, slim pants will be in. Get yourself in shape! Short kurtis will stay for some more time and Indians will continue to mix and match.
Rina Dhaka
USP: Bold with old
Short skirts will return and churidars will stay. Most importantly old vintage look will make a comeback with prints of monuments and mythological figures on T-shirts and maybe even on saris.
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