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Suiting the situation


A traditional suit lends an age-defying classic look and suits all occasions.

You could carefully rotate the suit styles to generate a serviceable line.

THE MODERN man's wardrobe is controlled by myriad interactions from meetings and luncheons to social gatherings after work. Yet, most of the fashion choices are shaped by professional life. You want a look, which is synonymous with success and confidence. You want to look a leader .. a winner.

Fashion and fads come and go but `that' look of a winner and the heart of a man's wardrobe remains the suit. Even if you don't wear suits to work everyday, you need to own this tailored ensemble for special occasions when you need to wear an age defying classic look.

There are three traditional suit silhouettes for a man to choose from. In brief, the `American' is a natural shoulder suit. The `British' has lightly padded shoulders and follows the lines of the body. The `Italian' has slightly higher shoulders and clings tightly to the body. Standing the test of this season, the `soft' style is in. This indicates a cocktail of British and American style. The `soft' approach features a relaxed, year round fabric and has normal padding in chest and shoulder area. While allowing freedom, it still retains the tailored face. In tune with the trends, the lapels (on a single breasted jacket) should not be too wide and not too thin, extending a little more than halfway between the collar and the shoulder tip.

You must begin your suit wardrobe with a navy blue suit, which is slimming and serene, businesslike and chic. Your next choice could be a gray bird's eye or nailhead in worsted wool. The series should be followed by a chalk stripe (on navy base).

Now, you are ready to ease out. Add a little colour and pattern like a mini hounds tooth in soft camel brown. Make an assuring business statement in a good pinstripe. At once, forceful and restrained - the black and white glen plaid wool suit should be your next choice. Finally, you could go for a rich brown herring bone mohair suit finishing a serviceable line that you can carefully rotate.

The style focus in on T-shaped panels allowing freedom from fomal norms while still retaining the tailored face.

The two-button suit works for most body types. With its elongated frontal V showing more shirt, it tends to lengthen the body.

The three-button suits are doing strong. You could either button the top two (do this on a good waist) or the last two with the top button remaining unbuttoned behind the lapel (This shows more shirt area through the lapel opening, making you look tall). Go with what goes with your body.

The double breasted are fading away. Though with striped shirt with French cuffs, it could still be a good choice for dressier occasions.

With two layers across the chest, the double breasted is relatively warmer -- a point to be kept in mind for a Hyderabadi back drop.

The three-piece suit sees a downfall reasoned by the trend towards casualness of the suit wardrobe. T-shaped panel lines, zipper fronts, flap-patch pockets are style details indicated this season. To sport the `soft' look in light weight versions like sandblasted suede, silk blends posture is important. A good wardrobe contains different suit styles, some dressier than others. The focus is on what kind of wardrobe you need to succeed and be comfortable in a given situation. Never indicate a crane effect. With the right suit... suit the situation rightly.

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