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Tuesday, Oct 08, 2002

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Sparkling sets

Dealers in gemstones, Chandana and Gokul Karan of Karan Jewellers unveil their new collection in an exhibition currently on at Taj Banjara.

NECK DEEP: `Jali' work with `kundan' pendant.

ONE CANNOT think of heritage jewellery without a mention of diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls. Karan Jewellers are showcasing what you would like to see in an exhibition titled `Indian Heritage Jewellery 2002'. . To have a look at the pieces from heritage treasure, you can visit the Taj Banjara till October 9.

The jewellery, silver artefacts and objets d'art created by Gokul Karan and Chandana Karan reflect superb workmanship. The exhibition covers the period between 1800 and 2002, which witnessed some of the most original designs from the Mughals to the Jaipur rajgharana, the southern maharajas and the nobility as well as the Victorian era. There are also pieces from public and private collections, which are designed by Chandana Karan to incorporate today's trends. A petite Chandana spends hours by the candlelight designing dazzling pieces. Gokul Karan, got interested in jewellery after having witnessed his own family collection as well as that of the nobility.In fact, he got so carried away by the beauty of the jewellery that he was inspired to recreate the decorative birds and foliate motifs. He often replicated the carved Mughal Indian emeralds.

Among the most striking pieces are glamorous naqshi design sets with pieces of uncut diamonds from their Mughal pioneering work adopted from the early 18th century.

DESIGNER DUO: Gokul and Chandana Karan.

Chandana has also given emphasis to highly individual creation in the southern, Mughal and Jaipuri styles, the latter of which is famous for its enamel work or the popular Minakari. She has also used the `museum collection' as a rich source of inspiration.

She has used a lot of carved stones and diamonds for the Victorian collection with lovely clasps. Says Gokul, "diamonds and carved stones are mystical, magical, magnificent and rather expensive." Though originating from mere stones, the diamonds, rubies and emeralds metamorphose into an ethereal crystal in Chandana's hands.

PRETTY PEACOCK: Necklace styled from the Jaipur `Gharana' with enamel work studded with garnets.

Chandana kept her new collection unflashy by creating them with only uncut and rough diamonds — so, the stones have their own lustre rather than the expected sparkle.

Most of their jewellery is hallmarked and boasts of 91.664 per cent purity.

VERY VICTORIAN: Diamonds and rubies set in white gold.

Be it the jugnis or the guttapusal and even the jhumkas, the designs in gemstones has an entire range of emeralds, rubies, kundans, cats eye, polkis, diamonds, Jaipuri enamel avezas. Their jewellery has a distinct appeal.


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