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Battle for survival
The ruined temple for Somanatheswara at Poundarikapuram ...
THIS IS an account of two temples of outstanding beauty, one that is struggling to keep alive and the other where the priest has given up the battle and the local people have let the temple fall to ruins. True there are thousands of such temples all over the State but the beauty of the sculptures and the settings they are in make these two special.
Poundarikapuram is 10 km from the Aiyarkudi village that is on the Oppiliappan temple-Thirucherai road near Kumbakonam. The village is more famous for its Vishnu temple. The road was in a poor condition but we passed to quiet acres of thickly wooded scrub jungle and found the temple after many enquiries. Led by a team of exhilarated children, we reached the abode of Somanatheswara which had a sombre air in the evening sun. The setting sun cast shadows through the jungle surrounding the temple. The atmosphere itself was anything but quiet for, the temple is surrounded by huts that are screened by hedges. A narrow flight of steps led to the small, single room Ambal shrine. Across the hall was the main sanctum with exits on either side. Thankfully, the bats were absent. There was certainly no dearth of light for many parts of the ceiling had collapsed. There was a wide termite mound supposedly inhabited by snakes. Coming out of this picture of utter desolation through the side entrance one is stunned by a fabulous array of bas-reliefs on the walls surrounding the sanctum. Exquisitely carved arches house sculptures of the various incarnations of Siva. The minute yalis, hamsas, prancing horses and warriors pulsate with energy defying the onslaught of time and the elements. Equally beautiful are the images inside the alcoves they surrounded. The images have the early Chozha grace and fluidity of form. If the sculptor's intent was to inspire awe in the viewer, he had certainly succeeded. The vimana is covered with large bushes and the creepers have begun to encircle the sculptures in the alcove.
"The priest has left for the day," said a local resident who also supplied the information that Pradhosham and Somavaram in the Karthigai month were the only days when devotees cared to visit. Though dated to be of Parantaka Chozhan's time, it was amazing that no inscriptions were present. Even the few letters in the steps were not recorded in the epigraphic surveys. This truly seemed to be the case of a forgotten treasure trove. Photographs cannot completely capture the beauty of the sculptures. Pullamangai, that I visited next, was found to be in a better state. More about it later.
PRADEEP CHAKRAVARTHY
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