A holiday in paradise

Sunkissed beaches, a sprinkling of historical monuments, a wealth of flora and fauna, world class golf courses, bustling cities, mega malls ...with a little bit of homework, the holiday seeker can seek them out in the Philippines, says SUDHA UMASHANKER.

A CLUSTER of over 7,000 islands (only 2,000 of which are inhabited) sunkissed beaches, simmering volcanoes, a sprinkling of historical monuments, a wealth of flora and fauna, world class golf courses, bustling cities, mega malls, a hospitable and friendly people, and other never ending surprises (diving sites, hot springs, buried gold and unexplored caves) are what make the Philippines a tourist's paradise. There is something for everyone here - a rich tradition for the culture aficionado, seascapes for water lovers, remnants of the past for heritage buffs and history students and a little of everything for the average tourist.

A good place to start discovering the Philippines is by traversing the length and breadth of Manila (which is in Luzon, the largest and northernmost island) to unravel the many surprises it has in store. The name Manila was originally derived from two words "May (There is") and "Nilad (Mangrove plant") which grew on the banks of the Pasig river.

An important landmark in Manila is "Intra Muros", literally meaning "Within the walls". Intra Muros was the site of Maynilad, the native Tagalog settlement ruled by Rajah Soliman. It was conquered by the Spaniards in 1571. Miguel Lopez de Legaspi founded the city of Manila over the old settlement and built a fortress there. Named in honour of the Spanish patron saint St. James, Slayer of Moors (Santiago Matamoros) whose wooden relief decorates the main gate to the fort, Fort Santiago affords a good view of Manila Bay.

To protect themselves from foreign invasion the Spaniards also constructed a series of defences - high stone walls, bulwarks and moats. The walls stretched to 4.5 km in length - enclosing an area of 64 hectares - housing churches, residences, palaces, schools, gardens and government buildings, which is how it got it name.

During Japanese occupation in World War II, Fort Santiago became a hell hole wherein thousands of civilians and guerillas died in the infamous dungeon cells which lie below sea level leaving no room for escape at high tide. It also includes the Rizal shrine, a museum in honour of Dr. Jose Rizal - Philippine national hero who was condemned to death by a military tribunal and executed by a firing squad - for inciting people to revolt against the Spanish. On display at the museum are his personal effects, his farewell poem, "Ultimo Adios" inscribed in different languages and a flying frog which kept him company. The cell where he spent his last days and the brass shoe prints that trace his path as he walked in chains to his execution site evoke vivid images of this period in Philippine history.

Intra Muros was almost totally destroyed by bomb attacks during World War II. It was declared a Shrine of Freedom in 1950 by presidential decree and has since been restored and protected.

A walk along the cobbled streets of Intra Muros will take one to the Manila Cathedral, the main Catholic church in Plaza roma, Intra Muros. Its great cupola, stone carvings, rosette windows embellished with stained glass lighting up its clerestory make for an imposing structure. Mosaic artwork decorates three of its side chapels. The large organ with its 4,500 pipes came from the Netherlands and is said to be the largest in Asia. The centre of the cross on the dome is a reference point of astronomical longitudes of the archipelago. It is the sixth structure to rise on this site since 1581, with fires, typhoons, earthquakes and war alternatively playing havoc. Virtually destroyed during the war it was rebuilt with the help of the Vatican between 1954 and 1958.

Talking of war, the United States military cemetery is a poignant reminder of the scars of battle for it is here that the remains of 17,000 U.S. soldiers who died in the Philippines during the World War II have been buried. Not far from here is Forbes Park - the Beverly Hills of Manila. This luxury walled neighbourhood on Mckinely road even has its own police unit and opulent mansions. Family members of the Sultan of Brunei have homes here.

Among other must sees is Tagaytay.

About two hours away (depending on the traffic snarls) past drives on skyways or flyovers that stretch for miles, Tagaytay, located in the Batangas provine in South Luzon, is the site of the famous Taal volcano.

It is the smallest, active volcano in the world and the only one located in a lake. Stumped? Well it is like this. Right in the middle of the lake is a mountain within which lies the volcano. The setting is indeed exquisite with wisps of smoke emanating from the crater and the shimmering blue waters of the lake fringing the mountain. Visitors can take a boat ride to the mountain (from the town of Talisay) and then climb from the base to the crater. Those not equal to the task can go on horse back. At the summit one can actually see the water in the lake bubbling within the volcano below.

Despite the hazards posed by the volcano the island has been attracting migrants because of its fertile soil and rich fishing grounds. There is the Mayon volcano, an active cone shaped volcano at Legaspi in Bicol which is considered one of the most beautiful of its kind. It stands 2,462m high and is famed for its perfectly symmetrical cone. The last eruption was at the beginning of 1993.

If you like Spanish architecture, a walking tour of Taal town two hours from Tagaytay ridge would be a good idea to reconnect with the lifestyle of a bygone era.

The Pagsanjan falls is another tourist attraction not far from Manila, famous for shooting the rapids (travelling quickly along the rapids in a boat). It involves going on a canoe or banca paddled by two boatmen against the strong current who steer it through the gorge with walls of rock mass and vines. At the last major waterfall one can ride on a bamboo raft that takes one through the cascading water to a hidden cave formed by the walls of the gorge. More exciting is coming downstream at a thrilling speed which is when one experiences the joy of shooting the rapids - there are 14. Be sure to take a local Filipino or Pinoy along as the boat men sometimes demand extra money over and above the fare. The route to Pagsanjan from Manila is fascinating as it winds past the quaint countryside - beyond the Jamaica hills, plant nurseries, bamboo houses, hot spring resorts, pineapple plantations, buko pie, (tender coconut pie) mango pie, parutsa (peanut brittle) stalls and paselubong shops or souvenir shops.

While on the road one cannot forget the colourful jeepneys which sport a cheerful look with traditional designs and figures of horses painted on them. Originally reconstructed jeeps left behind by the U.S. army after World War II, the new jeepneys (some of which are Ford fieras) continue to remain a popular form of public transport.

No travelogue on Manila would be complete without mentioning its malls. The megamalls in Manila (SM Megamall, Glorietta to name a few) are something shopaholics would die for. Rows of shops in swank outlets stock clothing, footwear, accessories, cosmetics, souvenirs and food.

If you want to go island hopping there is a lot else to choose from. Some of the biggest islands are Mindanao, Palawan, Panay, Cebu, Bohol Mindoro, Masbate, Samar, Negros and Leyete. (Of the 7,107 islands only 500 are larger than one sq. km and 2,500 are not even named.) Each island is very different from the other in topography and natural attractions. While Palawan has beautiful beaches and has the biggest reservation of Philippine wildlife, Mindanao is dominated by mountain chains. Cebu city in Cebu, referred to as the Queen city of the South, is the country's second most important city. It is the shipping centre for the country and is known for fashionable shell and coral jewellery and rattan furniture. Ferdinand Magellan (1480 - 1521), planted the cross of Christianity here. The impressive and ornate Taoist temple is also located here.

The province of Ifugao, for instance, is famed for its rice terraces. Considered the Eighth Wonder of the World, they were constructed over 2,000 years ago by the Ifugao tribals using only their hands and primitive tools. Resembling a giant staircase they are an awesome sight, rising upto 1,500 metres high and extending over 2,000 km. In Bohol, the Chocolate Hills are a major attraction. They consist of about 1,200 haycock hills, between 30 and 50m, covered with grass. At the end of the dry season the grass is dry and chocolate coloured looking like giant scoops of chocolate in the centre of the island. Hence the name.

The world's smallest primate, the wee tarsier is found here. And for trivia that will gladden the hearts of birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts - more than 750 species of birds.

Davao is home to the Philippine eagle, the world's tallest in eagle species, standing a metre tall, with a wing span of 20m.

The Philippines is also not without honeymoon destinations and summer getaways and Borocay island with its white beach figures right on top. Not for nothing has it been ranked among the best in the world. Veteran beach combers vouch for the fact that they have never seen sand as fine and soft as talcum powder than in Borocay and as white; so it is cool to feel even under the scorching sun. What is more, the water is clear and not too deep which makes it a delight for children and adults who do not know how to swim.

Apart from Borocay's white beach there is Puka beach, known for its rare puka shells. Borocay is also among the Philippines' prime wind surfing venues and is Asia's best board sailing destination offering endless opportunities for water sports, scuba diving and snorkelling.

For a summer getaway, Baguio city - six hours from Manila by bus, variously known as the city of Pines, and the city of Flowers, the summer capital of the Philippines - is an obvious choice. Situated at an altitude of 1,500m above sea level it has several scenic spots.

Yet another delightful aspect are the fiestas unique to each island replete with music, dance, games, food, debate and theatre. The colourful Ati Astihan festival in Panay, Philippines' own Mardi Gras so to speak, is rated the most spectacular. It is a three-day fiesta in honour of child Jesus to which revellers come in colourful costumes and masks and dance to the beat of the drums.

If you do not have time to take in the Philippines at leisure, it is worth paying a visit to Nayong Pilipino (Philippine village) about 10 minutes away from Ninoy Aquino International Airport, Manila. On a 45-hectare site, the cultural/heritage centre showcases the architectural styles of six regions of the Philippines - Ilocos, Cordillera, Tagalog, Bicol, Visayan and Mindanao and the crafts typical of each. There are miniature versions of the famous Mayon Volcano, The Rice Terraces, Chocolate Hills and Magellan's Cross. The only regret a tourist may have is that the houses of each region have not been traditionally furnished and instead serve as souvenir shops. A jeepney ride through the sites is a bonus. Nayong Pilipino also houses a museum of Philippine dolls, an aquarium, an aviary, a garden of plants and a Philippine museum of ethnology. Music and dance performances are a value addition that make for a complete Philippine experience.

Rocked by earthquakes (of the political kind too) buffeted by typhoons, the Republic of Philippines has demonstrated a resilience that only adds to its appeal. With a little bit of homework and research one can list the kind of spots that would fire one's imagination and seek them out in the Philippines for a truly customised and memorable holiday.

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