Recently Masala cafe, one of the most happening places in Mamallapuram, got a second lease of life. Sporting wooden panels and Mangalore tiles, it looked swanky again. Everybody’s favourite cook Murugan was back in the kitchen. Surfers, well wishers and tourists came to show support to Surya Pitchai, the man behind the cafe.
A spark from Deepavali fireworks more than a month ago changed the fate of this and all the other cafes in this small fishing village. A fire that lasted for more than two hours gutted the whole of Masala cafe and five neighbouring houses.
It was the only cafe that owned a snooker table in town; a gorgeous vintage piece of furniture. Good food, a friendly host and cosy vibes made it a popular hang-out adda. Every one who knows Masala cafe has fond memories of birthdays celebrated, surf meetings and long nights of chitchat with great music and food.
What we saw that night was devastating to the town and its fans. Tourists, surfers, friends and every single able-bodied man ran up to neighbouring roof tops to douse the fire, using water from tanks.
Before the fire engine arrived the men managed to water neighbouring thatch so that the fire wouldn’t destroy the entire town, with its many thatched roofs. People were tearful; it was a sleepless night for everyone in this fishing village. As I walked up to the cafe, the most heartbreaking site was the charred snooker table.
The next morning, I met a teary-eyed Pitchai. “I don’t care about anything, but I lost my baby Napoleon, my pet dog, in the fire,” he said.
About 10 to 15 men were loading the debris into a truck and cleaning up the place. There was no time for retrospection. The town got together to forget the night and bring the cafe back to its glory.
The fire changed the face of Mahabs. A few days later the Collector’s Office issued a notice to the entire town to remove all thatched roofs in three days.
As always with how it works in our country, nobody took it seriously. The authorities waited for a week, and overnight, they started sealing cafes that did not comply with a warning.
The next day all the thatch was removed and every cafe in town scrambled for alternative roofs.
Though the villagers were angry and upset, it was a sensible move, necessary to secure the safety of not only the people living here, but also the tourists who flock to the town.
Unfortunately, many of the cafe owners had just redone their thatched roof in preparation for the Christmas season that was just a few weeks away.
Thatched roofs have been a signature look of Mahabs, and it makes the cafes feel cooler during summer. With business in tourist towns being very seasonal, a thatched roof is also cost effective. An area of 1,000 sq ft can be thatched at the cost of about a ₹lakh whereas a proper roof costs at least twice that amount. And to be honest, people also feel it kills the holiday vibe of the beachside village.
Cafe Nightmare and Bambino restaurant had the most challenges as they are both brand new cafes. This new rule has been a huge financial blow for these cafes as well existing ones. “I was hoping to cash in with this season to pay back the loan, but with this new change in rule, it will take a few more years to complete the payback,” says Murugesh of Nightmare.
Seventeen cafes in town had to get a makeover overnight in total. But in a small town as Mahabs, where the houses are so close to each other and electrical wires run zigzag in all directions, this was a much needed safety measure.
Mahabs updates
Mamallapuram’s annual dance festival is scheduled from December 25 to January 25. With a perfect setting by the Shore Temple, this is a must-visit place for lovers of Indian classical music and dance.
Namaste cafe on Othavadai Street is back for the season with their delicious cakes, breads and their famous momos.
A new entrant on Othavadai Street is the Gelato Ice Cream parlour. Gelatos are made in Puducherry with local tropical flavours. Papaya and orange are favourites among people.
The writer is a surfer and restaurateur who lives in Mamallapuram playtime
