A welcome step

The Delhi Government’s focus on the baolis of Delhi provides us an opportunity to reflect on the state of stepwells that hold more than just water

January 15, 2017 07:40 pm | Updated 07:40 pm IST

proud heritage Agrasen’s Baoli; (below) Nizamuddin Baoli Photo: Monica Tiwari

proud heritage Agrasen’s Baoli; (below) Nizamuddin Baoli Photo: Monica Tiwari

The Delhi Government’s 2017 calendar on the Baolis of Delhi is a valuable production that commemorates the stepwells that were the pride of the Capital over the centuries – starting with the pre-Sultanate period and finding their heyday during the Mughal era the calendar will make the young generation aware of this age-old facility to combat the summer heat and perhaps help in the preservation of a neglected heritage.

It’s worth recalling that there used to be several baolis in medieval times in Delhi (like in U.P., Rajasthan, Haryana and Gujarat) but Mehrauli had the largest number. Agrasen’s Baoli, which now falls in the Hailey Road area, is justly famous. But Khari Baoli beyond the Chandni Chowk exists only in name and is more famous as the spice market, though at one time people went there not to buy condiments but to escape the heat of May and June and then make merry during the rainy season. Agrasen’s Baoli has now been renovated with a view to better preservation. It was built after a fairy quenched the legendary Raja’s thirst during a hunting trip when New Delhi was a jungle.

Maulvi Zafar Hasan mentions a large number of baolis in his treatise on the monuments of Delhi, written in 1916. Khari Baoli, says Maulvi, was attached to an unnamed Shivalaya built by the devoted and virtuous wife of the illustrious and talented Vijayaname, born in the Kapura clan of the Kshatriyas. She spent the wealth left by her husband on acts of charity like building the Shivalaya in Gali Batasan Khurd.

There was also a baoli on the Parade Ground, west of the Hayat Baksh garden. It belonged to the late Afghan period. The garden was inside the Red Fort and the baoli supplied water to the gardens within the archaeological areas of the Fort. A baoli was also attached to the garden in front of the Shish Gumbad, not far from the tomb of Sikander Lodi, but it was in a ruinous state even in the first decade of the 20th Century.

In the city, close to Kunwari Begum ka Burj, a baoli was built during the reign of Feroz Shah. The tablet attached to it was so badly obliterated that the Maulvi could not make any sense out of it. Another baoli of the time of Feroz Tughlaq, a “massive structure of rubble masonry”, was built 50 yards from Pir Ghaib near the Flagstaff Tower on the Ridge. It was originally encircled by a series of chambers after the manner of the baolis of Feroz Shah, but these chambers have now practically disappeared.

“In 1914 a tunnel was discovered leading from the north wall of the baoli, and the discovery fostered the belief that the tunnel might be the subterranean passage with Abul Fazl says was made by Feroz Shah from Firozabad (his capital) to Jahan Numa (his Shikargah)…But close examination disclosed that it was too low and narrow to answer to the description of the subterranean passage….The tunnel, which has now been closed, extends for a distance of 638 feet to the north”.

In Mehrauli is Gandhak ki Baoli, near the tomb of Adam Khan. It dates back to the reign of Iltutmish, though Adam Khan belonged to the time of Akbar. “The baoli is in three tiers, each tier narrowing as it descends towards the bottom…The baoli was called the diving well since men dived in it for the amusement of visitors”.

The Baoli of Aurangzeb, near the Mahal of Bahadur Shah Zafar, is built in imitation of the well at Gandhak ki Baoli and Rajon ki Bain. It measures 130 feet by 36 feet, contains 74 steps and was built in three stages.

The Shamilat Deb Baoli is also mentioned by Maulvi Zafar Hasan in the old Sultanpur area of Mehrauli. Even during the early years of this Century it was not in use, being filled up with mud and only eight steps visible. The Rajon ki Bain baoli, was so named because it was used by masons for some time. The baoli on the Qutub-Badarpur Road is now almost defunct. Near the village of Khizrabad used to be a Baoli Sarai built of rubble and plaster. There was a baoli near Mubarak Shah’s tomb too. In Palam is the baoli of Har Nand. A number of baolis exist on the other side of the Jamuna too, but they are all in a pitiable state. But happily the famous Nizamuddin Baoli has been renovated under the Aga Khan Trust for Art and Culture.

Wells without steps are also famous, like the one near Dhaula Kuan crossing built during the reign of Shah Alam. This landmark of Delhi got its name from the dhaula or white sand found in its water. Once the road to Haryana used to pass by it. Now there is a garden around the well which is very deep and needed oxen for water to be drawn from it.

Jaithani-Durani ka kuan or the well of sisters-in-law was situated opposite J.P. Hospital but disappeared when the hospital (earlier named Irwin Hospital after the Viceroy), came up and the area lost its rural identity.

Lal Kuan in the heart of Old Delhi, which gives its name to the area near Hauz Qazi, still exists but has been covered up with wire mashing and a temple built at its side. The wells in the Red Fort have almost disappeared but Jangli Kuan, far away from it is probably still in existence, though covered up. It got its name since the area was a jungle when it was built.

Panchkuin Road is known after the five wells that once existed there. Before Inderpuri developed into a colony there was a well in a field there which was said to be haunted by ‘apsaras”. Andha Kuans or dry wells are said to be the abode of forlorn fairies who reward the broken-hearted with good fortune, like a goldsmith and barber who were prevented by them from committing suicide. These wells also served as hideouts of notorious thieves and dacoits who waylaid passers-by. In one such well a prophet hid from his enemies and, behold, a spider spun a web at its mouth and a pigeon laid eggs over it to help him escape detection.

The baolis at one time afforded a pleasurable retreat in summer but now they lie discarded because people prefer air-conditioned comfort. However, they need to be preserved because of their historical importance, including the baoli where William Fraser (1784-1835) used to have his romantic moonlight parties. This baoli is now being renovated to attract tourists under an Archaeological Survey of India scheme. But the recently discovered baoli in Sector 12, Dwarka is also worth preservation, along with the one in Salimgarh.

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