The transformation in the way Indians dress, cutting across regions and rural and urban areas, over the past decade or so, is really interesting. Young menfolk, rich and poor, are all wearing jeans and T-shirts in the summer, and windcheater jackets in the winter months, as in the U.S.
Indian women in the cities have almost entirely switched to western attire – jeans, skirts with colourful tops, and blouses and jackets in winter. The tight-fitting clothes are generally either original or duplicate versions of designer brands, with varying degrees of skin exposure. What disappoints me is to see western-attired women in public places, often in total disregard of their age and build, in preference to our own traditional ethnic wear that will be immensely more elegant and suited to our climatic conditions.
Ironically, women in the Anglo-Saxon world have meanwhile begun to patronise and appreciate the sari, big-time. They are fascinated by the manner in which one single piece of cloth is draped around the body, revealing just the navel which symbolises life while also sensually emphasising the curves, in a subtle manner. While we continue to ape them, they are turning their eyes to learn the art of dressing from us.
The versatility of draping a sari is also amazing and varies from region to region. In the cow belt it’s either seedha pallu or ulta pallu ; Maharashtrian women wear lang dar saris that separate the legs. Saris worn by Coorgi (Karnataka) women are extra-long, with several more rounds of drapes. Assamese women wear the saree in two pieces, called mekhla chadar . Upper-crust society women enhance the sensuality of the sari by wearing backless, sleeveless cholis .
One feels sorry for young Indian managers sweating with a grin under jackets and ties they are made to wear in the scorching Delhi heat. This phenomenon is more noticeable in the north and less in southern and western India. American corporate honchos permit their own to come to work in jeans and T-shirts, except perhaps in the banking sector. These smart young Indian men are observed wearing pointed- toes Italian leather shoes, shunning the cooler Indian sandals. But it’s nice to see our men in the cities taking a cue from western beachwear, shorts and T-shirts with rubber sandals, to beat the heat.
Indian men’s (and women’s) wear has centuries-old wisdom behind their design, keeping the very hot weather in mind. Loose-fitting kurta-pyjamas and dhotis and lungis provide excellent ventilation. Recently I watched a video advertisement of an international male garments manufacturer displaying a range of lungis, illustrating its versatility and body-friendliness. These are mostly in cotton or silk material.
Unfortunately, the traditional kurta-pyjama has become the signature attire of our politicians. This being my favourite casual attire, I am often asked at social gatherings in Delhi whether I have joined politics! Also, curiously, the good old waistcoats worn with the kurta- pyjama, which were called Jawahar jackets, are now referred to as Modi jackets since it is worn with aplomb by our Prime Minister.
I was happy to note during my travels in the southern States that girls even in rural areas attend school in salwar-kurtas, long skirts and blouses, which are even easier to wear and carry than traditional saris and lehangas. The traditional saris are, however, worn by older women, reflecting the pride in their age-old culture.
The arrival of synthetic fabrics, terylene, polyester and dacron, in the 1950s and 1960s, which were cheaper and easier to maintain than the traditional Indian cotton and silk fabrics, revolutionised the way Indians dressed. And finally, let’s face it, we are still overawed by the white-skinned sahibs.
Happily, there are signs of the handloom and khadi fabrics picking up after many years of struggle for survival. There is growing demand for Indian handloom, especially khadi fabrics, in the western world. These are more skin-healthy than machine-made fabrics. Back to the cottons is a slogan heard worldwide.
There is no problem with people exercising the freedom to dress as they please, and working women donning comfortable and easy wear. It has been said that one should eat as one pleases but dress to please others. Well, at least to suit one’s complexion and physique.
anil.chowdhry@gmail.com
