In the world, there are two camps: the English and the Continental. I’m not counting the South Asian sub-continental, the paratha-idli-dosa-poha-upma-poori alu . Those can do for lunch. But breakfast — there are people who can start the day only with croissants and coffee — or a Danish and hot chocolate. But until cholesterol became a household bogey, I was a bacon-and-eggs loyalist and, in my heart, I still am. Sausages, tomatoes, mushrooms, toast and marmalade were all variations on the same theme. Until I ate my first breakfast in Madrid. It had everything.
Over three days, I managed to sample the entire buffet: fresh fruit, local cheeses, small sugared cakes, yoghurt — possibly breakfast foods that most of the world eats. But there were eggs that no other part of the world has. Two kinds of Spanish omelette, tortilla española , one with kale and other vegetables, and the other with potatoes: tortilla de patata . This was no ornery omelette. It was a plump, golden cushion of eggs, potatoes and onions. The moment it was nearing depletion, someone would run out of the kitchen with a fresh hot one, and cut out a wedge invitingly. It was moist but not runny, the white potatoes and onions layered in yellow egg, the outside cooked to golden brown. Bars and cafés serve it as a tapa , but it is also a light dinner in Spanish homes and placed between two slices of a baguette — as a bocadillo — a sandwich. The breakfast included fried eggs, sunny-side up, but one day I asked for a scrambled egg and it came, fluffy and creamy, studded with green and pink bits: crisp-tender green asparagus and shrimps. Could that be bettered?
And then there was all manner of Iberian pork, red, brown, oily, dry, spicy, mild, chewy, tender: salsichao , salami; chouriço , chorizo; lombo , cured loin; and good old ham, jamón . All that is thirsty work. But Spain is famous for its oranges and unusual in that they are freshly squeezed so a prolonged breakfast was punctuated with tall glasses of orange juice.
At one end of one table there were large murukku -like brown curls, churro . Traditionally these oversized strips of fried dough are eaten dipped into molten hot chocolate at breakfast, or post late night revelry. I tried a bit but finished with fine, fragrant coffee — they had a wide selection and I tried most, growing more addicted every day. Not just to the coffee, but to el desayuno .
TORTILLA DE PATATA
(Spanish Omelette with Potatoes)
Serves 6-8
6-7 medium potatoes, peeled
2 large onions
8 eggs
2 cups olive oil for pan frying
Salt
Cut the peeled potatoes in half lengthwise and slice them approximately 1/8” thick. Peel and slice the onion into 1/4” pieces. Mix potatoes and onions in a large bowl and add salt. In a large, heavy-bottomed, non-stick frying pan, heat olive oil on medium-high heat. Spread the potato-onion mixture evenly and cook till potatoes are done. Transfer to a colander and allow oil to drain into a bowl.
Whisk eggs in a large mixing bowl for a few minutes until frothy. Pour in the potato-onion mixture and mix.
Pour two tablespoons of the used olive oil into a 9-10” non-stick frying pan and heat on medium heat. When moderately hot, stir the potato-onion and egg mixture once more, pour in and spread out evenly. Allow the egg to cook around the edges. Carefully lift one side of the omelette. When it is turning brown, the inside of the mixture will not be completely cooked and the egg will still be runny. To flip over and cook the other side, turn off the heat and place a large plate upside down over the frying pan. Hold the pan handle with one hand and with the other on top of the plate to hold it steady, quickly turn the frying pan upside-down so that the omelette drops into the plate. Reheat the frying pan and put just enough oil to cover the bottom and sides. Slide the half-cooked omelette into the frying pan. Shape the sides into a round “patty” with a spatula. Cook on medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Turn off the heat but let the tortilla sit in the pan for a couple of minutes. Serve warm, either whole, or cut into wedges.
